GENEVA — Despite fresh geopolitical tumult and ongoing pressures on cost and trade, a sense of measured confidence was felt among retailers at the 2026 edition of Watches and Wonders.
“Despite wider global uncertainty, my outlook for 2026 is genuinely positive,” said Harrods’ director of buying, fine jewelry and watches Beth Hannaway. “After a strong start to the year, the watchmaking world feels energized and confident, leaning into creativity, craftsmanship and design with an optimism that’s both contagious and encouraging for the year ahead.”
Roberto Chiappelloni, owner of Manfredi Jewels, spoke of a balance between “measured confidence and genuine enthusiasm,” while Carole Falewee, director of watches and jewelry at Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche and Samaritaine Paris Pont Neuf, highlighted “the strong energy of this industry that innovates and unites our clients.”
Overall, retail executives described the fair as measured, stable with heritage top of mind but also authentic, refined, renewed — and powerful.
Hype wasn’t the name of the game in the cream-toned aisles between booths, reflecting the mood of an industry leaning back into what it does best: craftsmanship, icons and long-term desirability. As Chiara Pisa, chief executive officer of Milan-based Pisa 1940, put it, the fair felt like “a smart reflection of the current state of events and the market itself,” with an atmosphere of “awareness and consistency.”
What impressed the most was the breadth of creativity on show, ranging from rare handcrafts to cutting-edge developments. Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus’ senior vice president, general merchandising manager beauty, jewelry, gifts and home Tatiana Birkelund praised “new ways to tell time through sautoirs, cufflinks, pens and cuffs,” while Hannaway singled out IWC Schaffhausen’s Ceralume for bringing “a real sense of fun to serious engineering.”
Uncertainty has become the new norm but Narun Thamavaranukup, managing director of PMT the Hour Glass in Thailand, told WWD that “while headline news and macro conditions remain volatile, demand for exceptional watches, trusted brands, and meaningful retail experiences remains resilient.”
Today’s watch buyer wants a sense of time — counted in generational transmission rather than split-seconds — and a fresh, savvy take on icons. And “the comeback of iconic pieces provides a sense of reassurance,” pointed out Stéphanie Hernandez, buying and marketing director of the watches and jewelry division at Galeries Lafayette.
Meanwhile, appetite is growing for jewelry-led watches, smaller proportions, distinctive dials and exclusivity, with pieces that feel like personal, daily companions built for the long run.
“We are looking forward to the rest of 2026 as we anticipate our clients will continue to resonate with haute horlogerie, inspired by pieces that will stand the test of time and spark joy for generations,” said Birkelund.
Here is what retailers had to say about the 2026 edition of Watches and Wonders.
Tatiana Birkelund, senior vice president, general merchandising manager beauty, jewelry, gifts and home, Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus
This edition was: Authentic.
Overall impression: Refined, intentional, focused, purposeful. Brands are really keying into their DNA.
Best booth: Van Cleef & Arpels invited viewers to step into their magical world of poetic creations and complications. They are masterful storytellers, bringing their brand to life through artistry and an unrelenting dedication to craftsmanship.
Top watches: Chanel Nœud de Camélia Diamonds Cuff; 37mm Bulgari Octo Finissimo in yellow gold; Piaget Swinging Pebbles; Chopard Atelier Collection.
What most impressed you: The design innovation on display this year was truly remarkable. We saw brands introduce new ways to tell time through sautoirs, cufflinks, pens and cuffs, bringing a sense of artful creativity to mystery watches.
New talent: Norqain’s dedication to technical watches for winter sports was very intriguing, and everything from its miniature snow village to its Gondola meeting room to mountain glassware amplified the brand’s sporty, fun and energetic ethos. March LA.B is also one to watch.
What resonates best with your customers: Our clients appreciate excellence in design and savoir faire. They seek versatility, scale and longevity as they invest in timepieces with a long-term, generational perspective.
One watch you want to wear right now: Chanel’s new neutral Premier Originale is so chic, an ode to the maison’s codes interpreted through a modern lens.
What trends emerged? As brands leaned into their heritage, they breathed new life into house classics. We saw more diamonds than ever before, with diamond bezels, dials, sparkling bracelets and several fully encrusted diamond watches to choose from. There were also new natural dial materials on display, such as hawks eye, opal, verdite and more, as well as pale nudes and neutral tones, which introduced a crisp and contemporary feel.
Outlook for 2026: We are looking forward to the rest of 2026 as we anticipate our clients will continue to resonate with haute horlogerie, inspired by pieces that will stand the test of time and spark joy for generations. We are actively bringing our takeaways from Watches and Wonders to our talented selling associates who inspire our clients with the ultimate luxury pieces, bringing them the finest the category has to offer.
Brigitte Chartrand, chief buying and merchandising officer, Net-a-porter
This edition was: Exquisite.
Overall impression of the edition: As always, it was a luxurious experience that really allowed us to see the products up close. We had the opportunity to see some fantastic heritage and vintage pieces, alongside some amazing limited-edition pieces.
Best booth: Audemars Piguet — they took us on a full journey through the history of the brand and had a strong collection of vintage pieces.
Best moment: Trying on the Cartier Baignoire Clou de Paris.
Top watches: Cartier Baignoire Clou de Paris; Piaget Swinging Pebbles; Chanel Premiere Edition Originale in Champagne; Piaget Sixtie Cuff Watch; Cartier Tank Louis Mini.
What most impressed you? The Piaget Swinging Pebbles watch — this is the style I was really drawn to.
What resonates best with your customers? The newness from Cartier, our customer at Net-a-porter will love it.
One watch you want to wear right now: Chanel Premiere Edition Originale in champagne.
What trends emerged? We definitely saw a strong presence of multicolored stones, creating a look that feels extravagant versus minimal. The vibrant colors added energy and depth to the styles, an extra layer of expression.
Your outlook for 2026: It’s a growing area of the business for us, so we’re placing a strong focus on expanding the category and offering the very best to our customers.
Narun Thamavaranukup, managing director, PMT the Hour Glass
This edition was: Measured.
Overall impression: [It] felt more deliberate and confident. Brands clearly decided to focus their new launches on refining strong foundations — proven collections, balanced and smaller proportions, and thoughtful complications. There was a clear sense of maturity across both product and messaging. Creativity was present, but it was commercially grounded, underscoring a collective understanding that today’s clients value substance, longevity, and authenticity.
Best booth: Ulysse Nardin with “The Genius” animated installation modeled after Ludwig Oechslin.
Best moment: Going through the small exhibition on the 100th anniversary of the Oyster case and the highlight was watching a very emotional film at the end of the exhibition.
Top watches: Rolex Cosmograph Daytona with the enamel dial; Patek Philippe Ref. 5249R automaton “The Crow and the Fox”; Tudor Monarch; Ulysse Nardin Super Freak; Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback.
What most impressed you? I remain deeply drawn to rare handcrafts, and this year the Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts collection was a standout. The level of artistry involved, particularly in wood marquetry, is extraordinary. The ability to create depth, texture, and narrative using microscopic slivers of wood, while maintaining the harmony and precision expected of high watchmaking, speaks to a level of human skill that cannot be replicated or accelerated. At the other end of the spectrum, the Ulysse Nardin Super Freak impressed me from a pure engineering standpoint. With over 511 components, powered by an automatic movement offering three days of power reserve, it is remarkable that over 97 percent of its components are in constant motion. Achieving reliability, efficiency, and wearability under such mechanical complexity is an extraordinary feat — and a reminder that true innovation can be just as poetic as traditional craftsmanship.
New talent: There is growing confidence in a new wave of independent watchmakers who can balance strong design language with industrial discipline. Watchmakers who can combine recognizable identity, achievable pricing tiers, and realistic production capacity are becoming increasingly relevant for our market, particularly those that can support long‑term partnership rather than one‑off hype.
What resonates best with your customers? Our clients responded most strongly to familiar icons that felt fresher and more considered — improved ergonomics, more restrained sizes, cleaner dials, and tangible quality upgrades. Storytelling rooted in heritage, craft, and longevity continues to resonate far more than experimental or overly conceptual pieces.
One watch you want to wear right now: Rolex Day-Date 36 in White Gold featuring a vibrant turquoise stone dial with baguette sapphire hour markers.
What trends emerged?: The continual shift toward quiet confidence — smaller case sizes, refined proportions, subtle complications, and a move away from overt signaling. Brands appear more aligned with the reality of today’s clients, favoring enduring relevance over short‑term excitement.
Your outlook for 2026: Cautiously optimistic. While headline news and macro conditions remain volatile, demand for exceptional watches, trusted brands, and meaningful retail experiences remains resilient. We will continue to focus our efforts on strong and long-term partnerships rather than being transactional and opportunistic.
Tiffany Hsu, chief buying officer, Mytheresa
This edition was: Reinvented.
Overall impression: A confident return to form — disciplined, refined, and rooted in heritage. Innovation was there but used with restraint. It felt like the industry settling back into what it does best.
Best booth: Chanel and Audemars Piguet House.
Top watches: Piaget Polo 79 18-karat white and yellow gold; Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas gold and steel; Bulgari Octo Finissimo 37mm in gold; Chanel Noeud de Camélia Cuff; Audemars Piguet Établisseurs Galets.
What impressed you most?: Chanel’s tweed diamond setting, genuinely new and beautifully executed, and Atelier des Établisseurs by Audemars Piguet, proper craftsmanship, bringing the métiers d’art back into focus.
What resonates best with your customers?: Jewelry-led watches — pieces that feel like an extension of a jewelry wardrobe. Cartier continues to lead this space, particularly with the enduring appeal of Must de Cartier and the updated Baignoire as well as Bulgari Serpenti — easy to wear, but pieces of jewelry.
One watch you want to wear right now: Bulgari Octo Finissimo 37mm Gold.
What trends emerged?: A clear nod to the ’90s but done with restraint. Less about nostalgia, more about refining what already worked. Across houses like Piaget and Audemars Piguet, it was evolution over revolution — and frankly, that’s where the industry is strongest.
Stéphanie Hernandez, buying and marketing director of the watches and jewelry division, Galeries Lafayette
This edition was: [About] heritage.
Overall impression: A cautious and wise show during which brands capitalized on their iconic pieces, [like] Rolex with Oyster, Cartier with Roadster, Crash and Tortue.
Best booth: Panerai with its Vasca. The whole booth reflects its diving DNA.
Best moment: The immersive movie tracing back the Rolex Oyster’s story for its 100th anniversary.
Top watches: Cartier Roadster; Tudor Monarch; Bulgari Octo Finissimo 37mm; Hermès Cape Cod mini Hèrmes; Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometer with integrated strap.
What most impressed you?: Panerai Luminor 31 Giorni.
What resonates best with your customers?: The comeback of iconic pieces provides a sense of reassurance to our clients.
New talent: March LA.B, Norqain.
One watch you want to wear right now: Cartier’s Tortue.
What trends emerged?: The trends of previous years are confirmed: reduction in sizes, work on materials and dials.
Your outlook for 2026: We remain cautious but confident for 2026 thanks to our department store on Boulevard Haussmann [in Paris] and our shops present in airports, we reach all nationalities and a significant traffic.
Beth Hannaway, director of buying, fine jewelry and watches, Harrods
This edition was: Renewed.
Overall impression: Watches and Wonders this year was defined by evolution rather than revolution. Brands refined core collections, merged métiers with technical expertise, and adopted a more design‑centric approach. Smaller case sizes and strong entry‑price positioning broadened accessibility, while an equally compelling emphasis on exceptional high complications and high jewelry watchmaking reinforced the strength and confidence at the very top end.
Best booth: Audemars Piguet stood out in its first year returning to the show, delivering an immersive booth that powerfully celebrated 150 years of heritage through storytelling.
Best moment: A defining moment was Rolex marking 100 years of the Oyster; a powerful reminder of how one foundational innovation continues to shape modern watchmaking through timeless design and enduring brand authority.
Top watches: Rolex Day‑Date 40 Jubilee Gold with gold leaf dial; IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Venturer Vertical Drive; H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Pump; Jaeger‑LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Hokusai The Falls at Aoigaoka; the small Cartier Tortue in yellow gold.
What most impressed you?: IWC’s Ceralume stood out for bringing a real sense of fun to serious engineering; glowing ceramic that feels playful, unexpected, and slightly magical, while still being grounded in genuine material innovation. It’s the kind of watchmaking that makes you smile without ever losing credibility.
New talent: While there aren’t any new independents we’re actively introducing from the fair this year, it was fantastic to see H. Moser step into the main fair. Their debut immediately stood out — confident, creative, and refreshingly distinct, bringing true independent spirit and energy to Watches & Wonders.
What trends emerged?: The mini trend resonates most strongly; smaller proportions, refined designs and playful nods to heritage feel perfectly aligned with how our customers want to wear watches today.
One watch you want to wear right now: The Mini Baignoire snow‑set dial, it just makes me happy. It feels playful, like putting on jewelry rather than checking the time, and it has that perfect Cartier mix of sparkle, confidence and charm that I’d happily wear everywhere right now.
What trends emerged?: I felt a real vibe shift this year. We’re seeing materials science really come into its own, with brands leaning into lightweight, engineered ceramics, titanium and hybrid metals, while still reserving 18-karat gold for true statement pieces. At the same time, dial creativity felt confident and expressive; color, hard stone and métiers d’art finishes everywhere. All of this sat alongside a quieter return to elegance: smaller, more refined case sizes and emotionally driven design, signaling a thoughtful, inclusive future for watchmaking.
Your outlook for 2026: Despite wider global uncertainty, my outlook for 2026 is genuinely positive. After a strong start to the year, the watchmaking world feels energized and confident, leaning into creativity, craftsmanship and design with an optimism that’s both contagious and encouraging for the year ahead.
Roberto Chiappelloni, owner, Manfredi Jewels
This edition was: [About] independence.
Overall impression: This year’s edition once again underscored the industry’s commitment to technological advancement and creative innovation. It was especially encouraging to reconnect with fellow retailers and long-standing colleagues in such a welcoming and collaborative environment. The overall atmosphere struck a balance between measured confidence and genuine enthusiasm, reflecting a maturing market that continues to evolve while maintaining its deep-rooted passion for horology.
Best booth: Ulysse Nardin.
Best moment: Experiencing the unveiling of the Ulysse Nardin Super Freak.
Top watches: Ulysse Nardin Super Freak; Parmigiani Chronographe Mystérieux; Rolex Oyster Perpetual with the multicolored lacquered Jubilee dial; Kari Voutilainen 28 Moonphase; Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto Dual Time.
What most impressed you?: The Parmigiani Chronographe Mystérieux stood out for its technical ingenuity and refined execution, offering a compelling reinterpretation of the chronograph complication through a distinctly contemporary lens.
New talent: Lederer, particularly the Lederer Inverto.
What resonates best with your customers?: A combination of meaningful innovation and strong value proposition continues to resonate most with our clientele.
One watch you want to wear right now: Singer Reimagined Dualtrack.
What trends emerged?: A significant and enduring trend is the continued rise and recognition of smaller independent watchmakers — an area we have championed for many years and one that is now gaining broader traction across the retail landscape. The overall mood felt notably calm and measured, yet the underlying passion and enthusiasm for fine watchmaking remained very much alive.
Budgets up or down?: We approach each edition with flexibility, always prepared to invest when we encounter watches that align with our vision and standards.
Your outlook for 2026: We remain cautiously optimistic. The growing global awareness of horology — driven in large part by digital platforms and social media voices — continues to expand the collector base and foster new levels of engagement across the market.
Carole Falewee, director of watches and jewelry, Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche and Samaritaine Paris Pont Neuf
This edition was: Powerful.
Overall impression: A lot of new products, precise work from the brands to complete the collections (I am thinking of the importance of having integrated bracelet watches, like the new Master Control Chronometer collection from Jaeger-LeCoultre) but also to surprise and innovate! We clearly note several trends that are emerging or being confirmed: vintage, the return of mini cases, and the jewelry watch are examples of these.
Best booth: Tag Heuer and its engaging and immersive booth immediately invites visitors in the brand’s unique universe, combining car racing and innovation. Van Cleef and its enchanted world also plunge us into a truly poetic atmosphere.
Best moment: The arrival at the trade show, feeling the strong energy of this industry that innovates and unites our clients, some of whom were able to discover the products with us as a preview. What a pleasure also to see inspiring young brands like March LA.B join this exhibition.
Top watches: Vacheron Constantin Overseas automatique ultra plate; Cartier Baignoire Clou de Paris; Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Moonphase Impact Sapphire; Hermès H08 skeleton; Van Cleef & Arpels Day and Night Phase de Lune.
What most impressed you?: IWC Schaffhausen Pilot Venturer Vertical Drive. With this watch, IWC inevitably takes us on a journey beyond the globe, but also signs a remarkable co-developed piece.
New talent: The return of a brand like Universal Genève.
What resonates best with your customers?: I think there’s a strong vintage trend today that’s returning to its roots but is also in high demand among customers. This includes small watches like the stunning Bulgari Octo Finissimo in size 37, as well as the growing popularity of Piaget’s Warhol collector’s edition. Cartier’s Tortue monopoussoir is another fine example of what customers are looking for.
One watch you want to wear right now: Baignoire Clou de Paris de Cartier! Elegant and unique.
What trends emerged?: I really like that the work of stone is even more honored this year on the dials. The Rolex Day-Date 40 light green aventurine dial, the Zenith G.F.J in Heliotrope… it is definitely a must-have of the year.
Chiara Pisa, CEO, Pisa 1940
This edition was: Stable.
Overall impression: A smart reflection of the current state of events and the market itself: not many novelties and mostly not disruptive, focusing on the middle-high end and precious metals whenever possible. The overall atmosphere was quiet, not with a feeling of fear, though, but rather of awareness and consistency.
Best booth: Van Cleef & Arpels, even if entering the Rolex booth feels special every single time.
Best moment: Meeting people from the industry you haven’t seen in months, and it feels like yesterday.
Top watches: Ferdinand Berthoud FB2TV.1; Patek Philippe 7047g-001; Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Perpetual Calendar; Ulysse Nardin Super Freak; Piaget Polo 79 Sodalite.
What most impressed you?: IWC Schaffhausen Ceralume.
New talent: Rexhep Rexhepi keeps raising the bar higher and higher.
What resonates best with your customers?: Exclusivity of models and craftsmanship.
One watch you want to wear right now: Patek Philippe Nautilus Anniversary in white gold and diamond indexes.
What trends emerged?: Smaller sizes, yellow gold keeps growing and overall precious metals are more interesting to brands.
Your outlook for 2026: Time itself teaches us that everything is cyclical, and in the recent years also unpredictable.
Mark Udell, CEO, London Jewelers
This edition was: [All about] heritage.
Overall impression of the edition: A lot of the brands are going back to their heritage and to what they stand for. Most of the collections have been scaled down and been refined to [echo] the collections of the past.
Best moment: The best moment of the week was hearing the results from a lot of the important jewelers in the U.S. I think the U.S. market has been very strong, and I love to hear that some of the important brands [are banking on it]. I love that the market has become the number-one market in the world for a lot of brands.
Top watches: Patek Philippe Nautilus 5610/1P; Rolex Day-Date in Jubilee Gold with green aventurine dial; Bulgari Octo Finissimo 37mm; H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Two Hands, in 34mm and 28mm; Cartier Roadster collection.
What most impressed you?: When it comes to complication, it’s hard to rival Patek Philippe. As part of their rare handcrafts [pieces], they released a new timing watch, which I think I was probably most impressed with. That’s the reference 5249R, which is an hours and minutes on demand.
What resonates best with your customers?: Everyone is scaling down in terms of size of the watch, and I think there’s a heavy focus on uniqueness with color, especially stone dials. I think you can see that with the new dials that Rolex released for the Oyster Perpetual line.
What trends emerged?: The trend right now is stone dials. I think we’re seeing every brand focusing on making unique dials. The new Piaget Polo 79 in white gold is a beautiful example of experimenting with different dials. I mean, Piaget hit it out of the park in terms of incorporating fun dials and stone dials. But I would say across the board, whether it be independents or larger groups, I think everyone’s focusing on stone dials.
Outlook for 2026: The pattern that we see right now is a very healthy pattern. We’re continuing to see growth. It’s not only for the wonderful brands that we carry, but it’s very important to understand that we have wonderful people working for us as a family business. We’re turning 100 years old this year and [I’m proud of] the people that work for me and the customer service that we give to our customers.
Manuela Facheris, category management director — luxury, fashion, sunglasses, watches, jewelry and accessories, Avolta
This edition was: Refined.
Overall impression: This year’s edition felt more of a refinement, with brands leaning into more wearability, smaller proportions, lighter material and in general a quieter evolution addressing customer feedback.
Best booth: Bulgari.
Best moment: Cartier touch and try.
Top watches: Cartier Roadster; Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Lagoon Blue; Parmigiani Fleurier; Bulgari Octo Finissimo 37mm.
What most impressed you?: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Inventiva Gyrotourbillon à Stratosphere, with the triple-axis gyrotourbillon.
New talent: Commercial novelties by Hermès and Frederique Constant.
What resonates best with your customers?: This very much depends on the markets and nationality of the customer. Mostly products in yellow gold and with some demographics, larger watches. However, new proportions introduced enable to recruit new potential customers — speaking to a younger customer who focuses more on wearability as well as being able to offer the same watch to ladies and men.
One watch you want to wear right now: Cartier Tortue rose gold and diamonds.
What trends emerged?: A shift toward smaller proportions was a theme across brands along very widely seen light/ice/baby blue toned dials. Materials used are leaning into lightweight and longevity such as ceramics, titanium and hybrid metals, while still reserving 18-karat gold.
Budgets: The majority is committed outside [the fair].
Your outlook for 2026: This very much depends on the market. As a general sentiment, we expect the situation to remain kind of challenging due to various impact economic and geo-political tensions.
