Meryll Rogge threw a party for her brand’s fourth birthday, styled as an underground high school rave. So she took guests to a high school, and seated them in long white hallways lined with lockers, or in the carved-out basement below dodging low-hung water pipes. Beer cans were served.
There was plenty of partywear on the runway, in a silver sequined twin set, a shiny slipdress over a baby T-shirt, and a gold bottom that took on the no-pants trend from last season with an even briefer brief. She extended the no-pants trend to men’s in this coed collection, with a front-zip silver suit that looked like a Space Age wrestling onesie.
Rogge played with proportions in shrunken jackets with pockets so teeny-tiny that only finger tips would fit, then flipped to oversize, rounded structures in vinyl skirt suits. Crochet knits casually thrown over the shoulder had bounce, while those handmade touches carried over as trim on fluffy cardigans. Clear protective coating overlayed a chintzy floral print skirt, much the way grandparents used to cover their couches in vinyl, and athleticwear had a P.E. class bent. The ’90s references were there.
While there was plenty of high school nostalgia, the more grown-up items were plaid blazers, suits and trenchcoats. A paisley print brought out bright colors on bow-shouldered dresses.
Rogge has good instincts and often works the off-kilter into her vision, but there were moments when it was unclear if it was an intentional design direction or the fit. The late start time and the difficult to navigate runway made the pacing jarring.
