The daughter of André Messika, a respected diamond dealer, Valerie Messika has deep roots to the jewelry world. She launched her own brand in 2005 as a contemporary and accessible interpretation of the diamond, which is freed from forced exercises like the river or the solitaire. She quickly found traction with her movable stones, bracelets and necklaces with elastic flexibility, and her best-selling Move collections. The creative sees her designs as symbols of femininity, emancipation and power.
Here, WWD takes a deeper visual dive into what inspires Messika’s body of work and the recently updated Move titanium collection.
WWD: You have made a mark in fine jewelry by upending traditional codes. What are modern “codes” to you today?
Valérie Messika: Modern jewelry codes today begin with freeing the diamond. This begins by transforming the image, feel and attitude of precious jewelry. I saw the need for a modern brand, and I knew I would have to conjure an entire universe that would resonate with a new confident, fashion-conscious generation, looking for a unique expression of individuality. Modern jewelry “codes” are about breaking the heritage, conventions, and formal designs related to jewelry; especially toward diamonds. The modern codes begin with young independents who look for new ways of wearing diamonds — casually, provocatively, layered, for daytime, with jeans, with attitude — and different places, too, for wearing them.
WWD: What inspired your new Move GI collection, and creating a “genderless” line?
V.M.: The new Move GI necklace is the latest jewel to be created within the Move titanium collection. The collection combines the strength of titanium with the power of the diamond, making for a collection of pure, raw and magnetic masculinity.
There are several other collections within the Move collections being unveiled this year which are designed in mind to be shared across the sexes. The new Move Link collection interprets the signature of the house, the “Move” motif, through one of the most popular jewelry trends — the paperclip necklace. This was one of the most popular jewelry trends within the last year and it’s a concept that transcends both age and gender.
WWD: Who are your jewelry icons, past or present?
V.M.: I have a lot of different icons. The most important icon above all else is my family. Because of my father, I was born to look inside of a diamond. Growing up, I would listen to my father talk passionately about this stone for which he is well known. He would explain the extraordinary qualities of the stone — light, fire, and brilliance. He would explain the individual personalities of the stone and their legendary invincibility. It is my father who transmits his passion to me, and this is one of the reasons why my family are the premier jewelry icons for me.
In addition to my family, I’m inspired by strong, independent women. Part of the story of Messika begins with Beyoncé, who has been a supporter since she discovered the Glam’Azone collection. Another shining example is Kate Moss. Kate has always served as an inspiration and muse. I’ve always admired the way she approaches things. Her instinct is what inspires me the most and this is one of the reasons why we decided to partner together in creating a high jewelry collection.
Grace Jones, Diana Ross, Brooke Shields, Jerry Hall, Bianca Jagger and other iconic figures from the days of ’70s nightlife and performance art have been my latest fixation whilst looking for inspiration for my most recent high jewelry collection “Midnight Sun,” and the way they wore jewelry and styled jewelry in their own personal ways
WWD: What’s your advice on how a modern customer should be wearing their jewelry in their day-to-day life?
V.M.: My advice to the modern customer is to be bold. Try to wear things in new, different and unexpected ways. There are no real codes or ways of wearing something. I think the most important connection to jewelry is the emotion and the memory of a story that is attached to it. Above all, you should be in love with what you are wearing and when you feel good in a jewel, it’s empowering and that is when you truly glow.
WWD: Is there a collection or a piece that resonates to you the most or marks a milestone over your collections?
V.M.: The collections which resonate the most are my Move Noa and Move Romane collections. They are named after my daughters. My girls are always looking at my wrists to make sure that I’m wearing the bangles from these collections. No matter where I am during the day or in the world across work and travels, I look down at my wrists and I am reminded of my daughters.
