LONDON — Mulberry has tapped Christopher Kane as creative director of a new ready-to-wear collection that will debut in September and land in-store and online in January.
An announcement is expected Thursday.
Mulberry said Kane’s appointment is the next step in its Back to the Mulberry Spirit strategy, which is focused on creativity, craft, enriching brand culture and restoring sales growth.
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“Welcoming Christopher marks an important moment for Mulberry as we open a new chapter for ready-to-wear. He brings a rare combination of creativity, intellectual rigor and instinctive playfulness, alongside a deep respect for craft and materials,” said chief executive officer Andrea Baldo.
“His vision resonates strongly with Mulberry’s heritage and the spirit of British creativity that defines the house. Together we look forward to evolving Mulberry’s creative language beyond accessories and shaping a compelling future for ready-to-wear on a global stage,” Baldo added.
Mulberry’s return to creating seasonal clothing collections is a big move. As reported, the brand terminated its clothing and footwear license with Onward Luxury Group in 2020, during the pandemic, as part of a wider cost-cutting program and a desire to focus on its core accessories category.
The collections had been produced by OLG for five years when the former CEO Thierry Andretta was in charge. The final rtw collection, designed by former creative director Johnny Coca, was for fall 2020.
Kane said it was an honor to join Mulberry, “a brand with such a rich British heritage and a deep commitment to craft. I look forward to working closely with Andrea and the team to create a new chapter of ready-to-wear.”
The designer has been making a gradual comeback since he shuttered his signature business, which he ran with his sister Tammy Kane, in 2023. The siblings still own the Christopher Kane and More Joy labels.
In 2024 Kane became the first guest designer of Self-Portrait’s residency program, creating a one-off collection based on his Central Saint Martins MA graduate show, which rocket-launched his career.
He said in an interview with WWD in 2024 that shutting his business was “tough, but I don’t see it as a failure. It was 18 years of phenomenal prestige and industry respect. Money can’t buy that.” Kane described the Self-Portrait project as “the next chapter, and putting my feet back in the water.”
During his long career, Kane worked with Donatella Versace on the Versus collection and partnered with Kering between 2013 and 2018.
In 2018, he bought back Kering’s 51 percent in his company and returned to life as an independent designer. He also launched a second, stand-alone collection of clothing and lifestyle products called More Joy.
In the 2024 interview, Kane said he was open to new, exciting projects, and potentially a return to the runway when the moment was right.
Mulberry has been gaining traction under Baldo, who joined Mulberry in 2024.
As reported, group revenue in the first half of fiscal 2025-26 was down 4 percent to 53.9 million pounds, but wholesale saw a 36 percent uptick.
Last year the brand signed new wholesale agreements in the U.K. with key partners, including John Lewis, Liberty and Harvey Nichols, and launched a retail incentive scheme to improve performance.
“We’re still early in the turnaround, but the foundations we’ve put in place are working, and we’re starting to see that reflected in performance,” Baldo said after the results were released.
“We’re strengthening our margin and have improved our cash position through a greater focus on full-price sales and disciplined cost management, while our refreshed product offer and creative direction are reconnecting the brand with customers,” Baldo added.
