This Slovak label’s less-is-more philosophy may make for understated silhouettes, but behind the scenes there was a lot going on in this clever collection for fall. The brand’s design team looked at the current state of artificial intelligence and the mistakes made by algorithms, the theme yielding fun but subtle design details.
Functional elements were intentionally put in the wrong places: a rear pocket set on the side of an asymmetrical skirt, lapels on the hems of jackets and belt loops and waistlines at the bottom of impeccably cut pants. The details added intrigue to the silhouette, and were perfectly executed to conform with the label’s obsession with comfort and cut.
Naming the season’s lineup “The Calm Before the Storm” in reference to turbulent times, the design team played with elemental references with their color palette and motifs. The jacquard pattern on a pale blue silk shirt and dress looked like rain drops on glass, for instance, while seams were offset as if buffeted by wind. A crushed velvet pantsuit in brooding gray, with a matching sheer-backed vest, was among the standouts.
Alongside the minimalist tailoring and luxurious cashmere and merino knits with ingenious twists such as patterned stitches that looked to overflow by accident, there was also strong selection of inventive outerwear. Coated wool jackets had a crinkled patent finish, adding pops of steely blue or vivid magenta to the lineup, while what looked to be a classic Harris tweed coat from the front revealed a down puffer behind.
