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Following two big runway shows over the past year, Nensi Dojaka took a different approach for spring, eschewing the limelight and focusing instead on a lookbook photographed by Drew Vickers in Paris.

Dojaka’s decision to take a break from the runway is part of a wider strategy. In an interview, the designer said she’s making a series of internal changes, taking tighter control of the brand, and steering the focus away from the red carpet and more toward glamorous, everyday clothing.

She’s also been wearing her own designs more, and “working on the fit and comfort side” of the clothing. “Consumers are looking at functionality, and they’re making more considered purchases,” said the designer.

None of this means that Dojaka has abandoned her love of lingerie. She’s just giving it a sportier, or more tailored, spin.

Sheer, georgette leggings created frothy pleats at the bottom of rolled, wide-leg jeans, adding a delicate edge to a workwear staple.

She worked with georgette once again, pleating it and creating dramatic fluted sleeves and legs on a jersey jumpsuit, mixing the soft and sporty.

Dojaka also put a big focus on tailoring, layering a black cropped jacket over a slinky bra top, and high-waisted trousers over sheer leggings.

Of course, there was still a dash of red carpet dazzle in the shape of strappy sequin dresses.

A white gown had a long slit up the front and corsetry-style boning around the bodice, while a rosy beige minidress came with a skinny black bra strap – a Dojaka signature – at the front.