For his first collection on the official calendar, Italian designer Niccolò Pasqualetti looked to the sea as an inspiration. He interpreted it lightly, for an ethereal twist on his continued exploration of uniform dressing.
The LVMH Prize finalist’s approach is both emotional and intellectual, yet there was nothing heavy handed here as he proposed unexpected combinations of fabrics for new takes on white shirts, pants and blazers.
He layered whisper-thin fabrics over trousers, and used translucent paillettes on tops and skirts, for a mindful take on the sheer trend. The inventive uses created an optical illusion of shimmer that felt as if the garments were floating on the body,
His maintained the cues of his monastic shapes on jackets and tunics, this season in patchwork denim. Crisp white trousers had a roomy fit and slits at the knee, like the most sophisticated harem pants you have ever seen. Other loose cut trousers snapped at the ankle to adjust to a straight cut or barrel-legged shape, while he maintained his soft sculpturing on jackets.
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“It was about finding the balance of something that is really spontaneous, and something really constructed,” he said backstage after the show. Found objects provided industrial touches, with chains as jewelry, straps or threaded through cutouts on knit dresses. With such a juxtaposition the hardware still felt delicate.
Pasqualetti’s use of layered pleating on asymmetrical dresses added movement and a slight edge of punk to the collection.
His focus remains on Italian craftsmanship, underlined by the graceful subtlety of this collection.
