Zhong Zixin
Winner of the Vogue China Fashion Fund’s Chinese Designer Prize, Zhong Zixin is returning to the U.K. for the first time since graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2018.
Her silhouettes — sexy and hourglass-shaped — recall the ever-so-erotic curves of fluted wine glasses and bottle necks. Her work references Art Deco, Bacchus, and childhood memories of summertime winemaking.
“I used mosaic and bodhi seeds in this collection, inspired by the materials from Chinese southern home decor,” she said, adding that the beads came from upcycled vintage mats which are used to cool down sofas and beds in the steamy summer.
In her new collection, beads drip from the décollatage of a black column gown, while leaf appliqués climb across gowns.
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The majority of the label’s stockists are located in China, and the Los Angeles boutique H. Lorenzo became the brand’s first overseas retailer, starting with the fall ’24 collection. In five years, Zixin said she hopes her line would have a stronger retail presence outside China.
Yaku Stapleton
For Yaku Stapleton, each collection is a chapter in an epic that revolves around his family. Puffer jackets have been molded into armor; wide-leg trousers are pulled in every direction by unseen foes, and padded accessories are shaped like video game characters or shields.
“The characters, which are based on my family, are preparing to go and combat their own paths and make peace with them. We’re addressing where hope comes from,” said the designer who won the L’Oréal Professionnel Creative Award in 2023 at the annual Central Saint Martins MA Fashion show.
Textiles — mainly deadstock — are simple: Twill, jersey, denim, modal, and mock islet mesh. Dyeing and distressing are where Stapleton’s specialty lies. Fabrics have been dyed in colors such as electric fuschia, mellowed khaki green, and rich chocolate brown.
Stapleton is always designing with his family in mind. “I think that first season I was looking at them on the surface. Now, I’ve started to rethink them…I’m seeing that they’re much more complex and it’s given me the freedom to be more dynamic,” he said.
Marfa Stance
Outerwear expert Marfa Stance has mastered modularity. Silky quilted liners, fluffy shearling collars, cozy hoods can be unhooked, unbuttoned and used multiple ways for the ultimate game of mix and match.
The customization element isn’t just a flight of fancy. “You’re increasing the life cycle of your garment by continuously switching it up with different accessories rather than replacing it with something new,” said Georgia Dant, the brand’s founder, and a former menswear designer at Burberry.
Born from sustainability and function, the brand has done away with seasonal drops, and instead focuses on responding to customer demand. Most recently it has released a raincoat line that includes adorable capelets, cropped and full-length coats, bombers, and quilted hoods made from surplus materials.
For its London Fashion Week debut, the brand has partnered with multidisciplinary design duo Isabel and Helen to create a short film. “Everything’s about your own personal style, you build your coat with functionality and renewability in mind,” Dant said, adding that rather than revealing new products, the presentation will highlight the brand’s interactive approach.
Puppets and Puppets
Puppets and Puppets founder Carly Mark made waves earlier this year after announcing that her brand could no longer afford to remain in New York. Although the storm has died down, the designer known for cool, avant-garde styles remains tight-lipped about the details of her upcoming London presentation.
She has also scaled back her business, and no longer sells ready-to-wear. Instead, she’s focusing on accessories. Her inspirations include the no-pants trend; Imitation of Christ, and Vanessa Beecroft, and she said the show’s aim will be to solidify the brand’s position as a “disruptor.”
When asked to explain, Mark said she feels the fashion business is no longer working, especially for emerging designers: “I was able to keep my head above water by stopping production, shutting down my New York office, letting go of most of my staff. I had to pull back on all the parts of my business that I was encouraged to develop.”
By concentrating on accessories, which this season will include a downy, pillow-shaped bag, the designer said she’s able to stay afloat financially. She also plans to debut a new brand logo, designed by Special Offer, the creative tech company which masterminded Charli XCX’s “Brat” visuals.
Manuel Tiscareno
Manuel Tiscareno is bringing his flair for couture to London. The designer, who is based between the U.S. and Mexico, is taking this season as an opportunity to grow his brand internationally.
“Our collection explores the blend of architectural construction with organic silhouettes,” Tiscareno said.
“We imagine couture for the modern individual, continuing handcrafted traditions in a digital world. It’s about beauty for its own sake while adapting to changing tastes, each piece reflecting timelessness and authenticity,” he added.
He has spun taffeta, silk, tulle, velvet, crystal fringe, embroidered fabrics, and hand-painted textiles into dramatic silhouettes in a palette that takes in black, white, champagne, blush, and acid green. Funded by private clients — and primarily brides looking for custom gowns — Tiscareno said he is looking for stockists to expand the brand’s reach.
