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Pat McGrath has the secret to shiny glass skin that delivers a porcelain doll effect. The internet went into a frenzy after the Maison Margiela Couture Spring 2024 runway show to find out how the British makeup artist achieved the poreless complexion look on runway models with several theories shared across TikTok and Reddit, but according to McGrath’s Instagram post this morning, the truth will soon be revealed. We’re crossing our fingers that the launch will give makeup and skin care lovers what they need to try the runway look at home.
Shortly after the Paris Couture Week show, beauty fanatics and experts quickly began to dissect McGrath’s brilliant makeup artistry, with one of the makeup artist’s Instagram posts garnering over 130,000 likes — and the praise has continued to roll in over the weekend. Bobbi Brown commented “Omg. You are the greatest living makeup artist of all time.” Katy Perry added, “My fav ever. Iconic. I’ve only ever used that word like twice. I think the first time was Beyoncé.”
While the couture collection has been heralded as one for the history books by critics, the response to McGrath’s porcelain doll makeup has equally turned into an unforgettable viral sensation, reminding us of the awe-inspiring creativity that comes from McGrath and John Galliano’s long-time runway show collaboration.
As for McGrath’s glass skin makeup magic, here’s what we know: Per a press release issued by Pat McGrath Labs, McGrath used her line of products to create barely-there brows, watercolor-like blush looks, and cool-toned eyes and lips, including products like Pat McGrath Labs’ Divine Skin: Rose 001 Essence, Divine Blush: Legendary Glow Colour Balm, Mothership I Subliminal Eyeshadow Palette, and Lust Gloss. Backstage videos show artists using airbrush makeup on the models’ skin for the lacquered look, but exactly what McGrath used for the reflective finish has yet to be revealed.
Redditors were quick to investigate. As of Saturday, January 26, the crowd-sourced verdict was that McGrath used Kryolan Liquid Glass, a vinyl polymer that forms a clear, reflective film on the skin. The product is fully sold out on Kryolan’s website, with a restock scheduled in three weeks. However, McGrath replied to a TikTok by Nico Haagenson about the Kryolan theory, saying “Amazing!! But we will show the real product soon! Stay tuned.”
Makeup artist Erin Parsons is onto another theory, positing in a TikTok that Freeman’s Cucumber Peel-Off Gel Mask was the secret behind the glass skin. Per Parsons, the face mask would need to be diluted to function with the airbrush machine. Parsons goes on to DIY the mask-and-water combo, spraying on five layers of the watered-down mask and using a hair dryer to set and seal it between coats.
Whether Kryolan, cucumber, or a bespoke concoction from Mother herself, special effects makeup isn’t known for nourishing skin the way regimented, Korean-inspired glass skin routines do. Consumer trends point to growth in the skin care category — it was the fastest-growing sector during the fourth quarter of 2023 — but still, the masses are entranced with the special-effects, makeup-first shortcut McGrath used for a poreless look.
While we wait with bated breath to see what Mother has up her sleeve, try the below products to achieve a glassy, porcelain look. Plus, don’t forget to bookmark this page as we keep you updated on this story.
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Freeman Renewing Cucumber Peel-Off Gel Facial Mask
Amazon Top-Quality Store Badge on Google: 4.5/5 stars
TikTok points to Freeman’s Renewing Cucumber Peel-Off Gel Facial Mask as a frontrunner for creating McGrath’s porcelain makeup look. Makeup artist Erin Parsons recommends thinning it out with water and applying it in thin coats with an airbrush machine, setting it with a hair dryer between layers.
Price upon publish date of this article: $3.86
Pat McGrath Labs Divine Skin: Rose 001 Essence
Nordstrom Top-Quality Store Badge on Google: 4.8/5 stars
Ulta Top-Quality Store Badge on Google: 4.8/5 stars
Pat McGrath Labs Divine Skin: Rose 001 Essence was an essential step in prepping the Maison Margiela models’ skin. This product sets a dewy foundation with its biphase formula that includes a milky emulsion and rose water essence. Use it as a base before moisturizer and makeup primer, then tap it over cream and liquid makeup products for more shine.
Price upon publish date of this article: $86
Kevyn Aucoin Glass Glow Face & Body Gloss
Amazon Top-Quality Store Badge on Google: 4.5/5 stars
One TikTok user posted a video using this gloss by Kevyn Aucoin for a porcelain skin look, wielding a makeup sponge to layer the glaze over cream blush, foundation, lipstick, and eyeshadow for a high-shine finish. The product is available in six ethereal shades, but the Crystal Clear colorway has blue undertones that aligns with the cool-toned look of the Margiela models.
Price upon publish date of this article: $23.53
Gucci Beauty Éclat De Beauté Effet Lumière Gel Face Gloss
Sephora Top-Quality Store Badge on Google: 4.8/5 stars
Consider it a lip gloss for the skin — Gucci Beauty’s face gloss is a translucent jelly that adds wet shine wherever you apply it. It’s friendly for tapping over foundation and blush, or mixing in with eyeshadows for a glossy lid look. The silicone-free formula is surprisingly breathable, and easy to remove with warm water.
Price upon publish date of this article: $37
Tower 28 Beauty SuperDew Shimmer-Free Highlight Balm
Sephora Top-Quality Store Badge on Google: 4.8/5 stars
The caveat of a porcelain doll skin look is that many glossy products leave you with a sticky finish that can catch stray pieces of hair. That’s not the case with Tower 28’s highlighting balm, which melts into the skin for a luminous look that doesn’t feel wet on the skin.
Price upon publish date of this article: $18
Mac Cosmetics Jelly Slime All-Over Highlighter
This limited-edition highlighter by Mac is a buildable gel: Use one to two coats for a sheer dewy look, or more to bring out the metallic shimmer. The silver shade brings a cool-toned touch that’s in lockstep with McGrath’s porcelain skin look. It’s only available for Mac Lover members, but it’s free to sign up.
Price upon publish date of this article: $28
KJH.Brand Hyper Shine High Lite Kit
KJH.Brand’s highlighter kit includes a shimmery pot of pigment with a liquid glaze you can use to calibrate the sheen and shimmer of the product. The pink shade layers beautifully over blush and on bare skin — apply a generous amount of the included Hyper Shine Serum for a glass skin look.
Price upon publish date of this article: $75
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Meet the Author
Claire Sullivan is the Senior Beauty and Lifestyle Commerce Editor for Footwear News and WWD, where she writes and edits beauty, fashion and lifestyle stories. She has over six years of experience as a writer and editor for national media outlets including Martha Stewart Living, Martha Stewart Weddings, InStyle, and Byrdie. She keeps her finger on the pulse of all things related to beauty and wellness, as well as the latest shopping trends and clothing brands.
