“I’m still in my ’70s mode but a little more updated,” Sergio Hudson said backstage before his models hit the runway. The decade of cultural change has served well for the designer, an endless source of inspiration for his power dressing via one-of-a-kind muses he has channeled before: Tina Tuner and Bianca Jagger.
Newness came via more leather, a fabric Hudson says he has “really stepped up with.” Look one came with a beige colored leather bustier with pronounced boning under a pin-striped suit, followed by a belted leather shirtdress that flowed down the runway. The focus on the cinching was seen throughout looks, with bustier details on sheath dresses and under blazers putting a focus on the body. Classic coats in menswear fabrics and deep suedes topped off several looks, easily staples for a fall wardrobe that is seasonless.
While the first half of the collection was muted in palette, Hudson always injects saturated color in his work. The second half of his runway went bright and sexy, as well as tactile with sequin tops, velvet suiting, leather obi belts and draped dresses exposing skin. And, of course, plenty of his trademark power suiting, now with bell-bottom trousers that swished by.
