Keeping up with Sportmax’s fashion direction has been challenging recently, for it has morphed toward different territories every season.
The underlying concept one could grasp, though, is based in the design team’s continued design-driven, no-storytelling approach, rooted in their quest for exploring — and challenging — the possibilities of textures and shapes.
At Friday’s fall show, note cards on every guest’s seat contained statements about the collection, including “our job is for the vision to become reality.”
Again toying with conceptual and abstract thinking — this season aimed at making the ordinary extraordinary — the team distilled a wardrobe that often deceived, and fascinated, the eye.
Closed-loop silhouettes were the overarching theme, as in the handkerchief dresses made of one single jersey cloth looped between legs, or silk frocks with panels jutting from either side and wrapped around the neck.
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The wraparound feeling carried over to double woolen trenchcoats with over-capes, often trimmed in fringe, dresses with built-in scarves and in the more dainty but graphic evening wear.
A sleeveless minidress was made of tiny strips of laser-cut organza enveloping the body and protruded into fringes.
When constructions went more linear, texture played the trick, as in the denim-looking shirts and trucker jackets or faux furs embossed with a croc pattern.
Press notes reminded guests that Sportmax was launched in 1969 as a “catalyst of the ready-to-wear revolution by reinventing the women’s wardrobe with an unprecedented vision, highly evolved for everyday living.”
In that sense, the fall lineup was Sportmax to the max.