PARIS — Cotton was blooming despite the torrential downpour Thursday night as U.S. Ambassador Denise Campbell Bauer hosted a cocktail reception to celebrate emerging designers and their work with the American-grown Supima fiber.
Guests were welcomed into the gilded halls of the official Hôtel de Pontalba residence to see the fashion showcase of the seventh annual Supima Design Lab.
On display were the works of newly minted design graduates who were finalists of the Supima Design Competition in the U.S., the finalists from the 39th International Festival of Fashion, Photography and Accessories — Hyères, and a slate of rising talents.
On the grand, spiral staircase of the residence, Campbell Bauer recalled visiting cotton farms, including that of her great-grandparents, during her childhood in California.
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“This industry is close to my heart and the hard work that goes into farming, particularly as we face the challenges of climate change, is something that I’m very, very aware of,” she said.
She emphasized the strategic importance of Supima, the organization dedicated to supporting the use of American-grown Pima cotton worldwide, and its work with young designers to promote the U.S.-grown fiber, which makes up less than 1 percent of global cotton production.
“[Supima] is committed to U.S. efforts to modernize and expand data-driven sustainability,” she said. Supima’s work with small farms can promote sustainability and traceability, she said.
“Designers can access information about social and economic responsibility, contributing to advancing the global fashion industry, from the farmers to the fashion designers,” she said. “Everyone involved is helping their sectors thrive while pursuing sustainable artistic creations.”
She wore a bright royal blue dress with swirling shoulders and an added bit of bodice sparkle from designer Bibhu Mohapatra, who was on hand during the reception.
Supima president and chief executive officer Marc Lewkowitz discussed his work with the OECD and focus on promoting the use of natural fibers in fashion, to help the apparel industry move away from oil-based synthetics.
“There’s the opportunity for us to have a big impact using cotton wool, linen, silk — all the natural fibers — and highlighting the quality and benefits of those fibers that are biodegradable, long-lasting, durable, comfortable, breathable,” he said. “These are things that are often overlooked in fashion collections, and what we’ve been able to work with over these multiple years now is working with our designers in New York and working with our European designers to really bring forward an understanding of what is possible.”
The collections on display all shared a “mindfulness and thoughtfulness” from each designer, he added.
Buxton Midyette, Supima’s vice president of marketing and promotions, highlighted the group’s partnerships to support and promote the next generation of young creatives.
“These partnerships are so dear to us,” he said. “What we’ve tried to do here is really capture a snapshot of the designers that we feel represent the future of fashion at all different stages.”
Guests walked through several rooms with looks on circular displays.
Charles de Vilmorin posed for photos next to his design, which had been featured on dancers during the opening ceremony of the 2024 Paris Olympic Games. His work is part of an ongoing partnership with Supima. He chose the fabric for the project due to knowing how it would perform.
“It’s quite pure, and you can really work with the fabric and create something unique and new. Within the cotton, there is a lot of different references, and you can really try each one and create something special with every quality,” said de Vilmorin.
Various incarnations of Supima cotton were twill, denim, jersey and velveteen, as seen in the eclectic array of designs on display throughout the gilded salons.
“An event like this one is a proof that a cotton brand needs to help and to work with young designers, because we are all here for Supima,” de Vilmorin continued.
“There are 14 different designs in the different pieces, and all the designs are very different, but they are all Supima, and this is very rich and very, very elevated for brand like Supima. This is quite unique.”
The designer will show at Hong Kong Fashion Design Week in November, then return to Paris for couture week in January. He’s also working on new collaborations in China, which will be revealed soon.
A snap-happy Bianca Saunders pulled a retro digital camera from her bag to take photos with her design on display. The crisp white denim suit was based on the uniforms of workers at a Jamaican resort in the 1940s. Curving seams gave volume to the trousers, while rounded shoulders and tucking at the neck added loose structure.
Other featured designers and rising talents in the Paris scene included Igor Dieryck, Torishéju Dumi, Victor Weinsanto, and Vincent Pressiat, who mingled among the guests, alongside Niccolò Pasqualetti.
Supima partners with design schools from across the U.S. for its annual design competition. This year Emma Joan Foley from The New School’s Parsons School of Design was the winner with a pink cocoon of a creation on display, while Rhode Island School of Design’s Henry Hawk showcased how he created the subtle indigo shading on his multi-pocket creation.
