Each year the Couture show welcomes new brands into the fold, linking them up with the creatives, buyers, influencers and executives who walk the Las Vegas show.
The 2024 edition is no exception, once again shining a light on some newer talents as well as brands attending the Las Vegas show for the first time. Here, WWD spotlights a mix of brands in the freshman class of 2024 Design Atelier, the show’s incubator for fresh and emerging jewelry talent.
Brand: Campbell + Charlotte, founded by Jenny McHugh in 2021; Charlotte, N.C.
Price range: $1,000 to $18,000
Aesthetic and material: Playful and sentimental with an intentional focus on color and texture; 14-karat gold with a broad range of colored gemstones and diamonds.
Signature pieces: Evolve stone inlay ring — pink; Found Cabochon Station necklace — moonstone; Spark emerald-cut pendant necklace — malachite; Spark Chevron cigar band ring, and Juju Hearts bangle.
Inspiration: “The brand is inspired by my journey in becoming a mother. I started the line soon after my first daughter, Campbell, was born and I say she is the spark that started it all and the muse that keeps the collection alive. Each collection in the line is a reflection of the intense emotions and phases of motherhood. I work to translate these emotions into a design element that can inform that collection, creating an interconnected web of stories, memories and lessons that weave throughout the line. Now a mother of two, I cherish the lessons motherhood has taught me and how this crazy journey continues to fuel inspiration for the line. Above all, I believe that jewelry tells a story and serves as a vehicle to allow these stories to be memorialized and shared through generations. It is understanding and capturing these stories that continues to inspire my work today.”
What are you most looking forward to? “Drawing inspiration and creative energy from others — both fellow designers and retailers. This industry has such a broad range of design aesthetics and business strategies and I look forward to being exposed to some that are different from mine. Seeing alternative ways to find success and grow your business is a huge benefit to the Couture community.”
Brand: Claudia Mae, founded in 2020 in New York; currently Philadelphia
Price range: $475 to $14,500
Aesthetic and materials: “As a designer I strive to create pieces that become part of one’s personal legacy, transcending the boundaries of time and style. The collection features burnished set gemstones, which is an antique setting style that I have always been drawn to because it equally accentuates both the stone and the metal. Using this burnishing technique as a central theme keeps the collection sophisticated and timeless, even with more playful designs that feature colorful stones or unique cuts. As a bench jeweler, I stay close to my roots and use my original molds wherever possible. We work with two very small family-owned workshops that each have their own specialties and, most importantly to the brand, a strong respect for small-scale, ethically made fine jewelry.”
Signature pieces: “We are best known for our Nomad rings, which were a result of my personal pursuit for the perfect gold band. I spent months carving the original Nomad ring out of wax, getting the curvature and tapering just right. Designed to be mixed, matched and stacked, our Nomad rings are worn and loved by clients of all ages.”
Inspiration: “I am constantly inspired by color, texture and materiality. I feel truly lucky to work with natural gemstones and precious metals, as their beauty and inherent value make them a dynamic medium for artistic expression. I also get a ton of inspiration from my clients — hearing their stories and working on custom projects spark new ideas for collections. It is not uncommon for me to share concepts and sketches with my customers, as I really value their feedback and collaboration.”
What are you most looking forward to? “I am really looking forward to being a part of the Couture community, meeting with our existing retailers and building new relationships. I am also excited to launch our newest capsule, Love Locked, which features one of a kind tourmaline from Brazil’s Aricanga mine.”
Brand name: Imperfect Grace, founded by Krista Trpkovski in 2017; Chicago
Price range: $400 to $6,000
Aesthetic and materials: Each piece is made of 14-karat gold to which signature finish is applied by hand. The brand uses diamonds, sapphires and tourmalines.
Signature pieces: Puffy letters, Lubov, Moony, Adrea, Fallon ring, Rosa rings, tokens.
Inspiration: “Imperfect Grace is inspired by my European roots and love for modern style and design. Motherhood has inspired me to design pieces to commemorate my children and special moments.”
What are you most looking forward to? “It’s incredibly exciting to be at Couture, especially in the DA’s electric environment. Very much looking forward to speaking with retailers and editors in real life, sharing my love and passion for creating modern, wearable, heirloom pieces and the inspiration behind my collections.”
Brand name: Sophie Joanne, founded by Sophie Joanne van Bentum in 2021; Amsterdam, the Netherlands
Price range: $700 to $7,000
Aesthetic and materials used: “We are a vibrant brand, working with colorful stones such as various types of opal, tourmaline, and aquamarine. We work with 14-karat, 18-karat and 22-karat recycled gold to bring our designs to life.”
Signature pieces: Signature Flower ring
Inspiration: “Our first collection Bloemenkunst is my ode to flowers and their symbolism in modern art. I started my design quest by researching various artists such as Georgia O’Keeffe, Hilma af Klint, Andy Warhol and Karl Blossfeldt. Their use of color and shapes was highly inspiring to me. I was intrigued by the symbolism of certain flowers in their work, which all made their way into my designs. My designs are immediately recognizable by their sculptural aesthetics, feminine energy, and often inflated forms.”
What are you most looking forward to? “I’m particularly excited about meeting my existing clients in person for the first time. I started the brand during the pandemic, so most of the stores I sell through I haven’t met face-to-face yet. Additionally, I’m eager to connect with colleagues and jewelry enthusiasts worldwide.”
Brand name: Castro Smith, founded by Castro Smith in 2017; London
Price range: $1,600 to $35,000
Aesthetic and materials: “I use a technique known as seal engraving, which goes back to ancient times. A seal is always engraved in reverse and is much deeper than traditional two-dimensional hand engraving with a third or fourth dimension added, which is deeper and finer and takes much more time to achieve. I use my knowledge of engraving to create contemporary pieces and to experiment with European and Japanese engraving techniques. I use precious metals including silver, gold, platinum and stones throughout work to embellish eyes, or different accents in his engravings, with a particular liking for cognac and brown diamonds.”
Signature pieces: Heart signet ring, a Recipe signet ring, Hare and Trap signet ring
Inspiration: “At the moment I’m inspired by video games and how this medium is affecting our own creation of ideas and our own personal mythologies. I’ve created a ring recently inspired by a game that closely connected to the ring bearer’s life. That game was ‘God of War’ and although the game is arcade-like and based on Norse mythology there the main focus was around family which was reflected in the gamer’s life. It’s interesting that these rings for kings are now decorated with our deep connection with video games now.”
What are you most looking forward to? “I’m most looking forward to meeting the other designers and being under the spell of Vegas together.”
Brand name: Helena Rose, founded by Orly Atias and Sharon Giloh in 2019; L.A.
Price range: $900 and above
Aesthetic and materials: “We blend a passion for sculptural arts, vibrant colors, and the nostalgic allure of the ‘60s and ‘70s. We design pieces that exude a playful energy and evoke a sense of freedom. Each piece is meticulously handcrafted by master artisans reflecting the utmost quality and evocative beauty. Our materials include 14-karat gold, diamonds and hand-cut gemstones.”
Signature pieces: The Chunky Initials Collection. “Our initial rings and slide-on charms are handcrafted in several variations, allowing our clients to enjoy mixing and matching to create their unique personal narrative.”
Inspiration: “We’re inspired by sculptural arts, the intricate beauty of vintage pieces, vibrant colors and the nostalgia of the ’60s and ’70s eras in particular.”
What are you most looking forward to? “We’re excited to connect with a community of fellow enthusiasts who share our passion for jewelry. Can’t wait to admire everyone’s stunning collections and celebrate our shared love.”
Brand name: Alice Herald, founded by Alice Herald in 2016; Wanaka, New Zealand.
Price range: $2,500 to $65,000
Aesthetic and materials: “My jewels have a unique, bold presence. I design beautiful, elegant pieces to celebrate both the stories that inspire me and the lives of my clients. I use 18-karat Australasian yellow and white gold, diamonds and precious gemstones — tsavorite garnet, tourmaline, sapphires, all designed and crafted in New Zealand.”
Signature pieces: The Dreamer and Flute rings and earrings, the Odeon Stackers, the Venus earrings, and bangles, which showcase the pattern from the coffered Pantheon ceiling.
Inspiration: “I am a design driven artist and storyteller who expresses her creativity through unique fine jewels. My debut collection for Couture is called Istoria. It is inspired by the architecture of ancient Greece and Rome, with a splash of Greek mythology. Coupled with the fashions, textiles, colors and customs from those times, I recreate the wonder through my jewels that you feel when surrounded by these ancient, awe-inspiring structures.The thumb rings and double ended bangles are true to ancient Greek fashion and introduce novel interpretations of wearability.”
What are you most looking forward to? “British born and living in New Zealand, I am most looking forward to being a part of the Couture (global) community and connecting to other designers as well as buyers and just the camaraderie that will come with it.”
Brand name: Mined + Found, founded by Jenn Rachinsky Breznen in 2021; Ridgefield, Conn.
Price range: $500 to $15,000
Aesthetic and materials: “Modern antique; 14-karat yellow gold; diamond, multicolor sapphire, gemstones displaying phenomenal characteristics such as moonstone and opal; our signature in-house Rainbow Silk.”
Signature pieces: From the Useful Objects collection: the Hope matchbox and Direction decision coin pendants; the Rainbow Silk woven Eightfold chain necklaces and bracelets.
Inspiration: “The often overlooked and ‘everyday’ are of great inspiration to me. Seeing what some might consider to be mundane as magic and worth celebrating. Life is so much more than milestones; may we all learn to embrace a quiet, everyday moment as equally rare and marvelous.”
What are you most looking forward to? “Friends old and new. Community, connection.”
Brand name: Rosario Navia, founded by Rosario Navia in 2020; New York City
Price range: $2,500 to $30,000
Aesthetic and materials: “We design with a sensibility that combines modern and unexpected silhouettes to create jewelry that transcends gender norms. With sculptural diamond-forward designs, we highlight the beauty of negative space and asymmetry. All designed and handcrafted in New York City with 18-karat gold, platinum, and natural multishaped diamonds.”
Signature pieces: The Mara Collection, especially the Large Link Diamond rings and drop earrings.
Inspiration: “Architecture, vintage furniture design, and fashion are my main sources of inspiration. I draw from my decade-long career as a merchandiser in New York City’s fashion industry and my background in art to create cohesive and dynamic collections.”
What are you most looking forward to? “I was lucky to have attended the Couture Awards last year and witnessed the immense support and respect that every Couture brand has for one another. I am looking forward to joining the Couture community and forming worldwide connections with not only brands and retailers now but with their clients in the future.”
Brand name: Shinkai, founded by Mizuki Shinkai; Tokyo
Price range: $180 to $5,000
Aesthetic and materials: Pearls
Signature pieces: Shimmer South Sea pearl and marquise diamond ring, a one-of-a-kind ring with a baroque pearl set with diamonds.
Inspiration: “I carefully engage in a dialogue with materials to bring out their unique charm, particularly with baroque pearls that come in various shapes. My designs are often inspired by traditional motifs and patterns, influenced in part by my grandmother’s profession as a teacher of Japanese traditional dance.”
What are you most looking forward to? “I believe the show is an exhibition where unique jewelry from around the world is showcased. I am looking forward to meeting new people in the jewelry industry and I am excited for the surprises and joys that will come from their experiences with my collections.”
Brand name: Loraida, founded by Tyler & Madison Marvisi in 2020; L.A.
Price range: $3,000 to $50,000
Aesthetic and materials: “Classic with a modern flair; we use 18-karat gold, natural minded diamonds VS-VVS quality.”
Signature pieces: Lock bangles and disco rings.
Inspirations: “At the heart of our vision was the desire to craft timeless pieces that transcend the fleeting trends of the fashion world. We envisioned jewelry that could be cherished and worn by one generation, only to be lovingly passed down to the next, carrying with it stories, memories, and a legacy of beauty.”
What are you most looking forward to? “We are excited to immerse ourselves in this creative community and bring our brand and vision.”
Brand: Vice Versa Jewelry, founded by Sophie Thoerner in 2020; New York City
Price range: $950 to $30,000
Aesthetic and materials: 14-karat gold and natural diamonds
Signature pieces: Kin necklace, Versa rings
Inspiration: “We are inspired by kinetic objects, things found in hardware stores, locking mechanisms and the way things work and fit together. We are also inspired by sentimental objects and memories. We love to help our clients incorporate personal details — like the handwriting of their loved ones, into the jewelry we create for them.”
What are you most looking forward to? “We are so excited to see all our peers in one place. We have both worked in the industry for a long time before starting our own line so it feels a bit like a homecoming.”
Brand: Lucy Delius, founded by Lucy Delius 2022; London
Price range: $1,000 to $25,000
Aesthetic and materials: Vintage inspired, paying homage to Victorian and Art Deco techniques and silhouettes in 14-karat gold with diamonds, emeralds, rubies and sapphires.
Signature pieces: Victorian men’s watch chain inspired necklaces with customizable links and pendants, Victorian set pavé work (randomly set diamonds), T-bar pendants.
Inspiration: “The U.K. has the most incredible jewelry making history and my work pays homage to silhouettes and styles that have come before. With a very modern outlook.”
What are you most looking forward to? “Meeting buyers and press alike, inspiring conversation and being part of the most incredible jewelry week.”
Brand name: Ox, founded by Jessica Busiashvili in 2022; New York City
Price range: $3,950 to $65,000
Aesthetic and materials: “The aesthetic is a rework of timeless jewelry, using symmetry to make modern classics. I like to think of it as expensive lingerie or jewelry essentials that make you feel fabulous and sexy. Exclusively working in either 18-karat or platinum, we use E/F VS natural diamonds to tell the story of Ox.”
Signature pieces: “Our hero piece, and the one first released, is the Ourglass bracelet. Like a river wrapped around your wrist, it illuminates one’s everyday experience with movement and brilliance.”
Inspiration: “Time itself inspires me. Coming from an antique jewelry background, I recognized that quality and craftsmanship endures hundreds of years of wear and travel, constantly passing its story on to the next custodian, a quality lost in some ways in the contemporary world. What inspires me is, I believe, that time is the biggest luxury of all. And the prism of time I live in will be passed down in the form of jewelry long after I am gone.”
What are you most looking forward to? “This has been such a slow and organic process for me and Michael, my business partner [and her brother], so participating as a DA member truly feels like a milestone. I can’t wait to expand our community, share our story, and introduce more people to the experience of Ox. It’s a celebration of sorts and who doesn’t look forward to a party.”
Brand: Pamela Zamore, founded by Pamela Zamore in 2022; Boston
Aesthetic and materials: The collection is cast in 18-karat gold with VS/GH diamonds. Price point ranges from $2,000 for a pair of textural stud earrings to $38,000 for a collar necklace.
Aesthetic and materials: “The aesthetic of the collection is bold, sculptural, modern yet classic. The beauty of the gold is illuminated through texture, dimension, and finish with an occasional 1970s glam vibe and nods towards ancient Egyptian aesthetics.”
Signature pieces: The Isla oblong cushion earrings, Flow bangle and articulated Eos collar necklace.
Inspiration: “A reverence for jewelry’s significance throughout time and across cultures, and a lifelong appreciation of ancient artifacts, architectural details, vintage jewelry and modern art. I credit the strong, creative women in my life with shaping my world view and inspiring the boldness in my collection.”
What are you most looking forward to? “I am most looking forward to presenting my collection, which feels quite elemental in this moment, to a broader audience, and to meeting other artists who are here to share their inspired work with the world.”
Brand: Sanaz Doost, founded by Sanaz Doost in 2021; Toronto
Price range: $2,000 to $20,000
Aesthetic and materials: “Sanaz Doost is a celebration of cultural fusion, it is renowned for its harmonious blend of ancient Persian and Eastern artistry, combined with contemporary design influences from the West. Our pieces are meticulously crafted using exquisite 18-karat gold and adorned with locally sourced gemstones. The prime materials used not only reflect our commitment to quality but also underscore our dedication to sustainability.”
Signature pieces: Moshabak ring and Peacock ring inspired by ancient Persian geometries and architecture.
Inspiration: “Our designs are fueled by a deep-rooted passion for ancient art, architecture and cultural heritage. We draw inspiration from the rich tapestry of ancient Persia, where geometric motifs were not merely decorative but symbolic representations of cosmic order and unity. This fusion of ancient wisdom with modern creativity breathes life into every piece, making Sanaz Doost Jewelry a symbol of timeless beauty and cultural richness.”
What are you most looking forward to? “We are excited about the opportunity to connect with industry peers, experts and discerning buyers at Couture Vegas. It’s an incredible platform to introduce Sanaz Doost Jewelry to a wider audience, share our story, and showcase the craftsmanship and innovation that define our brand.”
Brand: Salomé Rico, founded by Salomé Ricomard Ludaescher in 2020; Paris
Price range: 990 to 5,000 euros for collections and from 4,000 euros for special orders.
Aesthetic and materials: “Recycled 18-karat yellow and pink gold. Fine, precious, hard stones and sometimes lacquer. The idea is to mix hard stones with faceted ones or to propose two colors very different on a piece. Solar, joyful and colorful jewelry. Lots of references to vintage styles, many details on each piece.”
Signature pieces: The Gelato ring and Polpo pendant.
Inspiration: “Fauna, I love animals in jewelry, all the details, the totem/gri gri aspect. I am a big fan of vintage grandmothers’ atypical and generous pieces.”
What are you most looking forward to? “Open international wholesalers, to spread the brand abroad. I would be glad to see my creations all over the world.”
Brand name: Statement Paris, founded by Amélie Huynh in 2019; Paris
Price range: $500 to $20,000
Aesthetic and materials: “Inspired by the purity of Art Deco lines and the power of Brutalist architecture, Statement imagines distinctive, sophisticated collections.” Crafted in 18-karat gold or 925 silver.
Signature pieces: “Each collection is an invitation to follow one’s own path and mark the milestones. As each collection unfolds, the jewels follow one another and accumulate. Emblematic of the maison, the My Way collection is an invitation to pave one’s own path. Like a suit of armor, these jewelry pieces are worn with pride as if to celebrate battles won. Protection, ascent, the collection’s creations are charged with symbols and hidden meanings that only the owner knows the secret of.”
Inspiration: “My quest for inspiration has always led me towards architecture, mostly Brutalism with its straight lines, sharp angles, perfect symmetry and powerful volumes. The Art Deco movement has also been an endless source of inspiration, not the curvy and flowery type, but the one that extols perfect geometric shapes.”
What are you most looking forward to? “It’s a tremendous pleasure and an honor to be here. It’s also a bit intimidating. It’s humbling because suddenly we find ourselves among all this talent, all this sparkle. We want to stand out. We hope our charm operates and the U.S. market reacts positively. It’s not going to be easy to take you by storm but we’ll surely try to. On a serious note, our brand is five years old. It’s a first milestone, we’ve made a name for ourselves in France. We’re young for sure, but we’re not that [much of a] newcomer anymore on our territory. We are here. We hope to prove that we’ve earned our spot.”
Brand: Type Jewelry, founded by Sara Bassan in 2020; born in Panama, based in Miami.
Price range: $4,500 to $20,000
Aesthetic and materials: “Our brand aesthetic is classic silhouettes with a twist. We work mostly in 14-karat yellow gold and diamonds with a splash of colored gemstones.”
Signature pieces: The Typestack ring, which is composed of four rings in one.
Inspiration: “Inspiration for me is about designing pieces I would want to wear and capturing the emotions they evoke. Fashion and its history play a significant role, and there’s a strong architectural influence from my husband when we draw designs.”
What are you most looking forward to? “I’m so excited to meet people in the industry, showcase my newest collection, and the evolution of our brand. I’m sure it will be a roller coaster of emotions, but I can’t wait.”
Brand name: Vanessa Fernández Studio, founded by Vanessa Fernández in 2014; Miami
Price range: $4,000 to $ 60,000
Aesthetic and materials: “VF’s brand aesthetic can be described as bold but fluid and feminine, the jewelry is mostly known for fine color. Everything is handcrafted in 18-karat yellow gold, fine colored gems and antique or antique inspired diamonds.”
Signature pieces: “I would say my signature piece is my Curva ring; a Curva ring is bold, sculptural gold wrap ring with a large colored gemstone, and it’s always a one-of-a-kind.”
Inspiration: “I am inspired by the beauty and sensuality of the female form, every curve, every movement. Movement within sculpture and painting as portrayed in works of the late 19th century are also very moving to me. Fine color has always been key to my work and my goal has always been to honor it. “
What are you most looking forward to? “I am looking forward to meeting with other creators within my community, to connecting and collaborating with the right retailers who respect quality of design and craftsmanship, and enjoying the company of good friends whom I’ll be reunited with.”
