Despite a lighter runway schedule, Paris remains a hot spot of brands old and new to make their mark.
Here WWD spotlights four brands showing for the first time on the men’s calendar: the final line launched under the direction of Issey Miyake; a label that owes its name to a come-hither; a sustainable women’s label branching out into menswear made with Nona Source deadstock fabrics, and Guillermo Andrade’s Los Angeles-based luxury streetwear label 424.
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424
Given Ye showed up at 424’s store opening in Los Angeles last year, founder Guillermo Andrade anticipates a strong turnout for his first proper runway show in Paris, and he promised to be respectful of the timing.
The brand presented its fall 2025 collection at the Maison de l’Amérique Latine at 4 p.m. on Tuesday, right before Louis Vuitton.
“We’ve been around for a minute, there was a bit of an ice period. Coming out of that, the show is a moment to celebrate all together with the people who have been along for the ride with me,” said Andrade, who founded 424 in 2015 and bought the brand back from investors in 2023.
With the support of new U.S.-based Chinese business partners and a fast-growing footwear business, Andrade thinks 424 once again is on an upward trajectory. Over the past four seasons, the footwear range has grown to about a third of the total revenue. The fall 2025 season will see the introduction of a wider range of footwear that caters to different scenarios.
Continuous investment in product development is what has kept the brand going in the past decade, according to the Guatemala-born Andrade, who now spends half of his time in factories in Italy. The brand is now stocked at 60 stores worldwide, including Printemps, Harrods, GR8 and H. Lorenzo.
“Ye coming to the opening event doesn’t hurt when it comes to awareness. But I think if the product was s–t, the flame would burn quickly. I think my products resonate because I focus on making my things,” he said.
For now, the priority is to create innovative and authentic pieces that complement each other. “You got to make it connect,” added Andrade.
Eventually, Andrade said he wants to create a 424 ecosystem that gives people easy buy-in, as well as collectible items that Grailed users would take pride in owning.
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Coucou Bebe 75018
“I’m a man and I’m a fashion designer” is as much as Kanoush, the mononymous multidisciplinary artist behind nine-year-old French label Coucou Bebe 75018, will reveal about himself.
If he prefers to remain anonymous and hide his face in pictures, it’s because “it’s simple like this, the only focus is on the work,” he said.
Kanoush has already had a turn in front of the wider fashion and entertainment crowd: He was the lead designer for A$AP Rocky’s American Sabotage, the label presented under the rapper’s creative agency AWGE. Those who have worn his designs include Rihanna, Madonna, Quavo and 21 Savage.
The brand owes its moniker to the come-hither used by sex workers operating in Kanoush’s neighborhood and the area’s postcode. It became his Instagram handle and the moniker used on flyposting campaigns for fake drug advertising and bootlegs of political campaigns, then the name for the clothing line that became part of his creative arsenal.
Loathe to pin down a particular aesthetic, Kanoush offered the idea of “prank collage” and random juxtapositions at play in a city like Paris. “Internet and the street can bring you anything from the Velvet Underground to a hobo on the street,” he said.
For Coucou Bebe’s “Testosterone” collection, Kanoush looked to exiled Russian artist Pyotr Pavlensky, whom he met on the streets of Paris. Rather than a turn on the runway, the clothes were to be showcased in the cage during mixed martial arts clashes staged on Tuesday night in collaboration with sports promoter Hexagone MMA.
Distilled across collage-style silhouettes — spliced together from repurposed sports gear, police kit, denim and more — were prints inspired by Pavlensky alongside references to French institutions such as the police, TV channels and prisons. As part of the designer’s commentary on social frictions, fighters played law enforcement officers or masked protesters while referees dressed like judges.
Bestsellers at Coucou Bebe are bomber jackets, which start around 500 euros. Prices otherwise start around 100 euros for items such as boxer shorts and can go up into the thousands. He continues to offer bespoke creations.
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IM Men
The final line launched under the direction of Issey Miyake in 2021, IM Men is all about clothes for the everyday that tap into the late designer’s philosophy of “a piece of cloth,” later known as A-POC.
“We place more value on practicality and universality as a product than on decorativeness, and aim to create realistic and beautiful designs that encompass human nature,” the label’s leading trio Sen Kawahara, Yuki Itakura and Nobutaka Kobayashi told WWD in an email.
The three are veterans of the Miyake Design Studio, working as both designers and engineers. Kobayashi, in particular, has a focus on textile design. “Our vision is to combine ‘functionality’ and ‘beauty’ to support everyday life,” they also said.
They explore flat foldable designs; employ wrinkle-resistant, lightweight fabrics to make movement and garment care easy, and put the emphasis on a variety of pleats as a way to conform to human movement.
Another focus is making products from a single piece of fabric, maximizing usage as a way to reduce both the assembly process and efforts required to recycle offcuts.
For the first IM Men outing in Paris at 11 a.m. Thursday, expect a collection inspired by the 1977 “Fly With Issey Miyake” show that explored the “a piece of cloth” concept.
The show will be followed by a three-day “Fly With IM Men” exhibition, open to the public and offering a closer look at the crafts and behind-the-scenes processes. The design trio hopes this will create opportunities for dialogues, including with “designers from other fields and students who will be responsible for future garment making.”
“Just as Issey Miyake, our founder, liberated people through concrete ideas such as pleats and A-POC, we aim to create products that transcend all the current barriers of design to bring new perspectives to many people,” the trio added.
The line, stocked at Issey Miyake flagships as well as eponymous stores in major metropolises including as New York, Paris and Tokyo, offers a full range of everyday menswear options that also includes formalwear and suiting as well as shoes.
Prices start at $65 for socks and go up to $3,000 for outerwear. Shirts, jackets and pants fall between $500 and $1,500.
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Les Fleurs Studio
Since launching in 2019, Les Fleurs Studio founder Maria Bernad has been building a sustainable brand with her romantic, upcycled dresses.
She’ll make her official calendar debut with a coed collection including menswear made with LVMH-backed Nona Source deadstock.
Titled “Lost Objects,” it will unfold in two phases; the first will showcase her signature dreamy dresses before moving on to something “a little bit darker” with shapely suits, intricate outerwear and handcrafted leather corsets.
Bernad took inspiration from the idea of a broken doll, who goes through a process of love, loss and grief before returning stronger.
“As humans, we use these things and then we throw them away. I want this collection to show the beauty of things that people don’t want any more. I’m bringing them back to life to say, ‘Everything can have a second life, and it can have a beautiful life.’”
With an academic background in art restoration before fashion design, Bernad puts her knowledge to use as she scours estate and rummage sales across France in search of pieces like Chantilly lace or embroidered tablecloths from the 19th- and early 20th century.
The new collection includes wools and silks, as well as tapestries which will be transformed into coats.
Working with vintage fabrics offers a welcome creative challenge. “The fabric is going to tell you how it works,” she said. “We work with circularity as a system. I just think there’s too much in the world already to be creating new things for a brand.”
Thanks to Nona Source, it’s the first time Les Fleurs Studio will go into production and be offered to buyers, through FHCM’s Sphere showroom. Next, Bernad is planning to expand the business with a pop-up strategy including Paris, with an eye on the brand’s key online sales markets of the U.S. and Japan.