PARIS — While fashion is slowly yet steadily leaving its quiet luxury days behind, jewelry brands are already encouraging consumers to rediscover the fun and charm of expressing their personal style with a dash of eccentricity through their latest collections. Jewelry seen here during fashion week played with colored stones and sculptural shapes, mixed yellow and white gold and introduced wit and movement for a little bit of playfulness.
Aurélie Bidermann
For some color therapy, dial Aurélie Bidermann. The French jewelry brand jetted off to Saint-Tropez and was inspired by Mediterranean destinations for its lively spring 2025 collection playing with colored stones.
Cue the Sagane set and its graphic interplay of malachite, amazonite, yellow chalcedony and pink opal in sculptural rings, earrings, cuffs and pendants, or the Tabarin rings marked by candy-hued cameo silhouettes combining semiprecious stones with a contrasting lacquered rim, also available in a mini version on a necklace, bracelet and pair of Honolulu earrings.
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In addition to other styles nodding to seashells or nautical themes like boat ropes and yacht elements, as seen in the Hilarios family featuring malachite and amazonite cabochons or the Byblosa family, the brand revisited its classic designs to match the inspiration. Highlights included the Positano bangles embellished with colored shells and starfish motifs and the Diana bracelets and hoops, whose charming torchon construction was further enhanced in the seasonal pink mother-of-pearl and offered as long necklace for the first time, too.
D’heygere
One can always count on Stéphanie D’heygere for a quirky touch. The Paris-based Belgian accessories designer stands apart in the jewelry arena for her unique combination of versatility and wittiness, which she pours into statement pieces and more subtle ones alike. Who needs a bag if you can carry essentials — and much more — at your neck or wrist, as proved by her fun and modern take on the traditional charm necklace and bracelets? Part of a collaboration with Vaquera, the pieces in brass and zirconia are customizable with keys, snap-hooks, ribbons but also pictures, bills, coins and even a cigarette and lighter. Also included in the collaboration, five cent coins were scaled up in maxi proportions in rings and earrings.
D’heygere is not new to collaborations, having partnered with both established and indie brands, from Longchamp to Medea. Last year, her eponymous label tied up with South Korean cult brand Gentle Monster on cool sunglasses flanked by a campaign portraying a bizarre wedding where models defied gravity with heads on the ground and feet up in the air.
The concept must have stuck with the designer, since she dubbed her main spring 2025 collection “The Single Bride.”
“It’s the first time we have a theme,” she said while pointing to creations that riffed on classic marriage codes. Bourgeois strands of pearls got a modern update via XXL gold or silver spheres in triple chokers while solitaire rings and wedding bands doubled up as ear cuffs. A pair of reversible hoops coming half in golden brass and half encrusted with zirconia were the ultimate go-to piece to accessorize looks from day to night.
L’Atelier Nawbar
Lebanese fine jewelry brand L’Atelier Nawbar, which boasts a heritage dating back to 1891 and has been revamped to attract modern customers by the fourth generation of Nawbars, also played with duality and the juxtaposition of gold and silver, as best exemplified in the new Moi et Toi ring and in Bloop Moon hoop earrings. Their sinuous design was also tweaked with colored stones in rings and bangles intended to be playfully stacked as in the brand’s signature approach.
Ditto for the Warriors line, featuring different motifs such as sun, dawns and hearts on bangles and rings. These elements defined the Mimette family of rings, earrings and pendants, too, which conveyed a more elevated image with retro appeal and array of silhouettes, ranging from rounded to drop or heart shapes.
Ashaha
Ashaha added to the pool of brands mixing yellow and white gold with the new Arcadia collection. This shed a different light on founder Uma Jémil’s work, which usually takes inspiration from stones and their energy for the pieces crafted between Paris and Italy’s Valenza, as well as from the Moroccan native designer’s Berber roots to offer stackable rings in gold with rainbow gems like diamonds, pink sapphires and topazes. Highlights of the new range include the Marcia rings combining 14-karat yellow and white gold with diamonds, the Bella pendant and Renée earrings, all marked by curved and sculptural silhouettes.
Lucas Bauer
For Marseille-born Lucas Bauer, designing jewelry follows the same principles of precision and planning as patternmaking, a skill he learned at the Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale (now folded into the Institut Français de la Mode). That’s how he ended up working for nine years as a jewelry and accessories designer in the women’s fashion studio of Louis Vuitton, an experience he describes as “tremendous in terms of knowledge of techniques, always pushing the product until the limit and finding new way of approaching the object.”
But in 2022, the designer felt it was time to set out on his own and began designing custom jewels, which soon snowballed into an eponymous brand, sold in Paris, Marseille and at the Villa Noailles in Hyères, where he also gives classes on jewelry-making for children.
For the collection shown during Paris Fashion Week, Bauer took cues in observations of nature — a passion passed down the generations in his family — but also from his diving. “This collection is all about roots, origins, movements — everything that can connect us and unite us,” he said. “I really wanted to find a vocabulary of shapes that can remind us of all living things, because we all have the same matrix [and] are connected in this way.”
Cue organic lines that turn his jewels into creatures that curl around the body. Made from silver, gold-plated silver or ruthenium, the offer ranges from lip and nose cuffs retailing around $100 to a stately chocker necklace priced at $1,000. There’s also a fine jewelry line using recycled gold and stones sourced from existing stock, which goes up to $3,600.
Begüm Khan
There are no doubts that Begüm Kıroğlu is a maximalist. True to her signature more-is-more approach, the bubbly designer continued to expand her brand’s assortment and further enrich her famous bestiary and botanical language with sparkly queen bees, turtles and prawns popping up on necklaces and brooches as well as maxi orchids and lilies blooming on earrings. Her take on pearls came with a touch of superstition, as she incorporated talismans such as the Evil Eye symbol in pendants and earrings set to both accessorize and protect the wearer from bad vibes.
Sordo
Jewelry designer Mónica Sordo’s creations don’t need to dazzle to garner attention. The Venezuelan talent works with organic shapes in scaled-up volumes in her statement pieces, often nodding to her Latin American roots.
Case in point, her Cubagua collection, which was born out of research she did about history of the island of the same name. Legend has it, the island’s native people adorned themselves with all sorts of jewelry pieces using the shell of a pearl oyster. Sordo’s collection in 24-karat gold and brass is a reinterpretation of this moment in history with an edgy take on the Caribbean pearl. Highlights included sculptural bangles and ear cuffs as well as the Oriente chocker and Puerto necklace, which could be paired in gold and silver hues to maximize the impact.
Guzema
With her minimal aesthetic, Valeriya Guzema sits on the other side of the spectrum, working with subtler volumes and lightweight constructions in her fine jewelry collections. Yet the result can be as striking, as proved by the Chainfall rings, earrings and chocker in white and gold yellow, whose simple yet dynamic silhouettes sparkle at every move.
The line flanks the brand’s signature elements, including polished orbs and flat rounded shapes that define rings and hoops and contributed to the understated appeal of the Ukrainian label, which was founded in 2016 and launched in the American market last year.
K Salamoon
Born four months ago, K Salamoon is the spin-off project of W. Salamoon & Sons, the storied jewelry house established by Wadih Salamoon in Beirut in 1907. Carole Salamoun, the founder’s granddaughter, opted for a separate branding so as to not dilute the high-end positioning of the original house, as she is looking to attract a new generation of consumers with more contemporary and purpose-driven lines.
Most of the times, these are linked to social and environmental initiatives, including raising awareness about the effect of climate change. After the Arctic Splendors collection recalling the shape of glaciers in danger due to global warming, Salamoun introduced the Forest Splendors range reprising the shape of leaves in sinuous rings, ear cuffs and necklaces dotted with diamonds and emeralds. Part of the sales will be donated to Sacred Groves to support its mission to preserve forests and natural environments.
A more geometric and colorful approach defined the Bee Splendors stackable line instead, which evoked the shape of beehives to raise awareness about the key role these animals play in the ecosystem.
Katarina Tarazi
A penchant for astrology and all things kinetic mark the work of British Lebanese jewelry designer Katarina Tarazi, who launched her namesake brand in 2021.
Crafted from 18-karat gold with matte or shiny finishes, hers are amulets that come with rich storytelling and a sense of playfulness that make each piece a conversation starter. Beside her signature rings with movable parts dedicated to zodiac signs, Tarazi developed the Marguerite collection nodding to childhood’s practice of plucking daisy’s petals, here reprised in rings and pendants marked by a flat structure engraved with different words that can be spun — doubling as a fidgeting remedy, too.
Létrange
Turning the Létrange Empreinte bag handle into a jewelry line is only just dessert. “It was not designed to be a handle in the first place, but to be a jewel that our creative director Mathias Jaquemet twisted to be used as a handle when he designed the bag seven years ago,” said chairman and seventh-generation scion Sébastien Létrange. “So he properly designed a real jewel [fit to] sit on a leather body.”
But after making a $1 million bag that featured an 18-karat white gold handle set a snowfall of 178 diamonds totaling 33 carats, it was time to take things full circle with the “Twist” line.
Made from sterling silver — plated in gold or left in its icy glory — the line spans earrings, rings, cuff bracelets and choker necklaces for now, in finishes that go from high polish to brushed and even a rock ‘n’ roll “scratched” effect. Prices start at 600 euros for the ring in silver and 1,600 euros for a cuff.
— With contributions from Lily Templeton
