Light, dark, strong, fragile. Haider Ackermann spoke to a diverse crowd with his sophomore collection for Tom Ford. And, boy, did they listen. Celebrities – including Pamela Anderson, Janet Jackson, Kate Moss and Rita Ora – jumped to their feet and began applauding the minute the show ended, in a literal puff of smoke.
A few minutes later, when Ackermann stepped onto the dark, smoky runway to greet his fans, they grabbed him, kissed him and wouldn’t let him go. “Haider is a genius,” said Jackson, who flew to Paris just for the show. “I’ve known him for 10 years, but haven’t seen him for a while, and I wanted to be here,” added Jackson, who still has a lineup of Tom Ford men’s jackets from the brand’s early days.
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Anderson, sporting red hair for her upcoming role in “Love Is Not the Answer,” directed by Michael Cera, said she’s “always watched this brand evolve,” and was eager to see Ackermann in action for the first time. As for her new coiffure, Anderson said the plan is to return to her signature look once the filming is over.
“In January, I’ll be blond again. But who knows? I might enjoy being a redhead too much – and keep it,” said Anderson.
She’s not the only one with a new look. Ackermann, who showed his debut collection for fall, has been adding his own, soft-edged brand of sex and slink to Tom Ford’s muscular tailoring, luxury leather pieces and film noir chic.
The show opened with a Tom Ford trope, a single, cinematic spotlight on a dark runway that found its way onto a cluster of models in skinny, patent mesh dresses in black, burgundy and apple green. A neat suede trench and shapely, tailored suits in gelato shades of mint and pink followed.
They were styled with luscious cashmere sweaters tossed over the shoulders, Italian style, a nod to the brand’s Italian licensee, Gruppo Ermenegildo Zegna.
A white suit and matching sweater had Anderson’s name written on it, as did a satin tuxedo in a similar shade, and a jacket glistening with white studs. Ackermann might have had Jackson in mind for other jackets, some of which were done in traditional menswear fabrics, with a shiny coating – ideal for the stage.
To satisfy its mega-red carpet demand, Ackermann delivered a lineup of dresses with sharp lines and sheer, lace-edged slips and gowns. Models made their way onto the glistening stage to the sounds of David Bowie singing a slow, pensive version of “Heroes.”
Some wore sculptural gowns with cleverly cut-out bodices and bare backs, while others were dressed in styles fluid as water, with high slits up the front, shawl-like draping. A two-tone, draped gown in mint and black was a standout.
Could Ackermann have done without the bondage bits? Yes. The see-through blue t-shirts and underpants worn over leather thongs were a little too risqué even for a Tom Ford runway, although don’t be surprised if Ackermann’s red carpet fans, of which there are many, don them for shock value.
Ackermann’s a crowd pleaser and has taken to his new role with gusto. And he also has star power, just the kind of energy this brand needs.
