Versace should be the Mount Olympus of power babes living in loud luxury with a classical twist. But the fall 2024 collection was so packed with ideas and product — not all entirely rich looking — that the brand message was muddled.
Donatella Versace said she was thinking about a rebel with a kind heart, as evidenced in the genderless punk rock red-and-black checked outerwear and spiky hairdos, grungy mohair sweaters, sheer tight shirts, leather pants and multitudes of chain belts, all a bit reminiscent of Barry Keoghan’s “playfully rebellious” personal style.
Power tailoring was a top priority, continuing the path the designer started a year ago at her spectacular pre-Oscars runway show in Los Angeles. There were a lot of iterations — too many, perhaps — including military-inspired maxi coats, boucle lady suits, sleek hourglass and casual equestrian moments.
She also brought back the long line, button front jackets Versace famously made for Prince, worn over tapered trousers. Those looks could have inspired an entire collection themselves. “He knew culture,” she said of her late friend, calling him a shy genius. “The music came from his soul.”
It was most refreshing, however, to see the female power jacket come down to Earth, paired with comfy stirrup leggings, as worn by Donatella herself at the preview. For when you want a shield that’s all padded shoulders, but also engage in a little self-care. That was the start of something simple, modern, and worth spending a little more time on.
The L.A. collection set the benchmark for the brand under its current corporate ownership that is about to transition as parent Capri gets taken over by Tapestry. And some of those ideas held forth, including sleekly sophisticated corset minidresses with spiral draped skirts, in leather or crystal mesh. But overall, the collection needed more elevation and focus.
