Grace Wales Bonner described her collection as a “study in refinement and purity,” as she took inspiration from studio portraiture as well as documentary photography. She wanted to look at different characters and modes of self-expression, which is why there were some lovely contrasts, and quirky details.
Fabrics ranged from washed velvet, cotton and linen with a worn-in feel to a tougher python-printed leather. A stone-colored chore jacket was soft and slouchy, and came paired with matching workwear trousers with loops for tools and little rivets.
Knits ranged from the ribbed, striped and sporty to the grandmotherly, as in a taupe twin set with burgundy rosettes embroidered around the collar. Polo styles had a polished 1950s feel, and came in punchy color combinations — cobalt and black, cream and burgundy, which Wales Bonner teamed with drawstring shorts.
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As always, the tailoring was strong, with key pieces done in collaboration with the Savile Row tailor Anderson & Sheppard.
Suits with sharp lapels came in dark or robin’s egg blue, while a lean top coat, reminiscent of the one Wales Bonner showed during one of her first Paris runway shows had an unexpected white check collar.
The surprises and incongruities kept coming – a navy blue tuxedo jacket had a single satin lapel; she paired it with tracksuit bottoms. Wales Bonner said she loved the idea of mixing and matching tailored pieces with sporty looks, and there is no doubt customers of every stripe will like it, too.
