As we age, mastering the art of eyeliner can become increasingly difficult. Product sits differently on the skin than it used to, the wing might suddenly feel too animated for your eye shape or a go-to formula is now wearing in seconds. So, what do we do? Do we drop the liner altogether and give up on achieving that lifted, embellished eye aesthetic?
If you ask Keyerra Madeline, a pro makeup artist at Blushington salon, she’ll tell you the solution is to alter your approach. “For women over 40, eyeliner isn’t about doing less makeup. It’s about changing the technique so the makeup works with the eye you’re actually working on. The biggest mistake I see is treating the eyelid like a flat canvas. It’s important to factor in your skin type, texture and the shape of the eye itself,” she told WWD.
How exactly do you accomplish this? First, prep the eyes. Use either primer or concealer, but keep in mind the latter can sometimes crease depending on the product. “Avoid over-layering creamy products before applying liner,” Madeline added.
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When it comes time to select an eyeliner format — liquid, pencil, gel or shadow — consider which formula suits your skin and the finished look you want to execute. “A pencil (mechanical or traditional) gives a softer, more natural and forgiving finish. A gel provides more intensity with some flexibility. Liquid liner creates the crispest, most dramatic finish but requires a little more control,” Madeline explained, before noting that placement should be given equal consideration.
Michelle Radow, head makeup artist for Fox’s “Baywatch” revival, outlined two of her preferred placement techniques: tight-line eyeliner on the upper lash line and a “slight wing on the outer last third of the eye.” For the tight-line look, Radow emphasized: “Don’t miss in-between lashes and also the upper waterline. It makes a huge difference! Use a brush like My Kit Co My Tight Liner, a gel-based liner in a pot like Mac Fluid Liner or Bobbi Brown gel liner or a waterproof pencil, but swipe the brush onto it, and then use the brush for application. Best are Urban Decay 24/7, Victoria Beckham Kajal Liner or Westmore Lasting Effects.”
The tiny flick technique, she continued, works best when you use a product such as Urban Decay’s 24/7 Liquid Stick Retractable Liner. “Use it like a stamp on the outer corner, or in a simple flick-up motion, and then tight line the rest of the third and fade into the natural lash line,” Radow said.
For those intimidated by the application process, and the steady hands it requires, Madeline suggested the dot-and-connect method. “Place small dots along the lash line, check your symmetry with your eyes open and then connect the dots to sharpen or soften the result. If the liner feels too harsh, don’t immediately remove it; use a coordinating shadow and a small brush to diffuse the edge. This transforms a hard line into something much softer and more wearable,” she explained.
Eyeliner that’s delicate and diffused but still defined should be the desired result. “We want sophistication, not age restriction,” Madeline emphasized.
