ANCIENT AND MODERN: Dior is providing a glimpse behind the scenes of its cruise show in Mexico last May with a documentary that takes viewers on a journey to the communities where weavers keep alive the ancestral textile traditions featured in Maria Grazia Chiuri’s collection.
The label’s creative director of womenswear tapped Circe Henestrosa, curator and designer of last year’s “Frida Kahlo, Beyond Appearances” exhibition at the Palais Galliera museum in Paris, to help her choose among the myriad of artisans from different native groups.
The hour-long documentary, titled “Dior Metamorphosis (Concealing and Revealing,)” spotlights several key players.
Narcy Areli Morales, the founder of the Rocinante clothing brand, worked with a group of Mixtec women in the mountain village of San Lucas Redención, in the state of Oaxaca, to oversee the design and production of an embroidery technique known as “pepenado fruncido.”
Hilán Cruz Cruz, a weaver and anthropology student from Tlacomulco, a Nahua community, is the cofounder of the Yolcentle workshop that perpetuates the “pepenado hilván” technique, which forms geometric patterns that were featured on a series of shirts and dresses. The film shows him making the journey to the Dior workshops in Paris, where the looks came together.
Pedro Meza is the founder of the Sna Jolobil, which means The Weaving House in the Tzotzil language, which created a gabán tunic based on Dior’s signature Bar jacket.
Made up of 800 women weavers from 20 Indigenous communities in the highlands of southern Mexico, the association is dedicated to preserving and revitalizing Mayan art by encouraging its members to study and recreate ancient textiles, natural dyeing methods for wool and cotton, and ancestral weaving techniques.
Meanwhile, weaver Remigio Mestas supervised the creation of four tunics known as huipils, illustrating the know-how of several Indigenous groups.
Made by Urdimbre Audiovisual, whose activities range from documentary films to concert production, the film also highlights the work of Mexican artist Elina Chavez, who collaborated with Chiuri on a sequence of dresses featured in the finale of the show at the Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso in Mexico City.
Made of white cotton muslin embroidered with red thread, they carry messages designed to raise awareness of violence against women and are currently on show at La Galerie Dior at the brand’s historic flagship in Paris.
The cruise 2024 behind-the-scenes documentary will make its debut on YouTube Premiere at 3 p.m. CET on Wednesday, with a live chat option, and will be subsequently available through Dior’s account on the video platform. — JOELLE DIDERICH
RALPH’S CAUSE: When well-known Bollywood actress Kareena Kapoor arrived at the fundraising gala dinner organized by Ralph Lauren in partnership with the Princess Diya Kumari Foundation last weekend, the glamour quotient went up several notches.
It was already at a high, held at the City Palace in Jaipur, with its magnificent architecture — built by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, who founded Jaipur. The palace is still home to the last ruling family, who live in a private section of the building.
But it was philanthropy that overshadowed the grandeur and the glamour. The PDKF is Rajasthan’s premier foundation focused on women’s empowerment. Over the last 10 years it has started five centers across the state to give women opportunities through advice and education.
The silent auction listed items from both Ralph Lauren and PDKF. Glimpses of the fall 2023 Ralph Lauren Collection peppered the event — including hostess Princess Gauravi Kumari, celebrities and local dignitaries. Wearing a Ralph Lauren Collection holiday 2023 emerald silk was model and actress Manushi Chhillar while Italian influencer and businesswoman Chiara Ferragni wore a champagne-colored, embellished dress from Ralph Lauren spring 2023.
Princess Gauravi Kumari
It was also clearly a statement of determination by the brand, which is in India in partnership with Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail — the first Polo Ralph Lauren store opened in New Delhi in 2018, and the first Ralph Lauren store in 2019. There are now four stores in India.
Chiara Ferragni
Last July, chief executive officer Patrice Louvet told Bloomberg TV that Ralph Lauren is being “very deliberate on planting the right foundation so we can build from there with the right image perception” in India. — MAYU SAINI
TO LEAF OR NOT TO LEAF: Gucci has a new take on Christmas trees. This was clear as the Italian luxury house on Monday evening unveiled its own tree, which is only shaped like one, and placed it at the center of Milan’s iconic Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II.
Succeeding Swarovski — which sponsored the Christmas tree for the city since 2013 — the Kering-owned fashion house opted for an installation made up of 78 gift boxes sealed with Gucci’s signature Horsebit buckle.
Coming in white and silver shades and topped with the brand’s logo, the boxes were lit up during a ceremony Monday evening, along with the LED illuminations that cover the domed ceiling of the Milanese landmark spot.
Open to the public, the lighting ceremony was hosted by Milan’s Mayor Giuseppe Sala, Gucci president and chief executive officer Jean-François Palus, Italian actress and godmother of the event Margherita Buy as well as Anna Dello Russo, who faced the freezing cold in a black double-breasted blazer jacket, mini shorts and flatform loafers hailing from Sabato de Sarno’s first collection for the brand.
“The place where we’re standing is recognized around the world as a symbol of the beauty of this city. With the Gucci tree with which we’re decorating the Galleria, we want to spread a message of joy and beauty with all of you and the entire city of Milan,” said Palus during the ceremony.
The gift boxes will be a recurring motif for the holidays at the brand, as they also will adorn the Gucci store windows and embellish the interiors of selected units worldwide.
Some of the materials that make up the gift boxes will be donated to ForMattArt, a cultural association for social advancement that promotes activities geared toward social solidarity and education.
Gucci’s sponsorship of Milan’s Christmas tree is part of an expansive project aimed at promoting beauty and enhancing semi-peripheral areas of the city. For example, in collaboration with ForMattArt, the brand pledged to light up parts of the Corvetto neighborhood — in Milan’s southern area — and embellish the entrances to three of the main schools in the district, in an initiative unveiled on the occasion of World Children’s Day on Nov. 20. Children were also involved in artistic workshops to create decorations for their schools around the topic of children’s and adolescents’ rights.
In his speech, Palus thanked Sala and the municipality of Milan “for giving us the opportunity to contribute in making Christmas special for the Milanese not only here in Galleria but also in the Corvetto district. May this Christmas be a reason for all of us to understand the importance of giving back to the community.”
“Our beloved Galleria is the expression of the city: when it’s full and buzzy, it means that the city is doing well,” said Sala. “We’ve sometimes received criticism about only big companies finding place here…but we ask them to do something for the city, in addition to promoting their brands….Because at the end of the day we’re privileged in living in this part of the world and in this city but, as per the Milanese spirit, without solidarity and attention to the others we don’t live well, it’s unacceptable for us. So every occasion of festivity…must be also an opportunity to think about the others,” concluded the mayor. — SANDRA SALIBIAN
HEADING NORTHEAST: The historic British retailer Fenwick has big plans for its branch in the northeast of England.
Fenwick’s Newcastle store is undergoing a 40 million pound renovation and has signed up as the luxury retail partner for the soccer club Newcastle United.
“Partnering with Newcastle United Football Club marks the beginning of an exciting new chapter for Fenwick, which has been an anchor in the city since we first opened over 140 years ago, bringing our unique curation of fashion and hospitality to the community,” said Leo Fenwick, strategic partnerships director at the retailer.
“We are incredibly proud to be on a shared mission to support local talent, creativity and passion, whilst putting the city and northeast on the map globally,” he added, explaining that the transformation of the store in Newcastle will affect the region positively as the brand amplifies its “reach and impact.”
The official announcement image shows players Mark Gillespie, Elliot Anderson, Naomi Bedeau, Elysia Boddy, Lewis Miley and Emma Kelly seated in a Fenwick store wearing sweatpants that feature the logos of Newcastle United and the retailer.
“We share a passion for the city and its people. After recently launching its ‘Quiet No More’ brand campaign, there could not be a better time for Fenwick to turn up the volume by joining forces with Newcastle United,” said Peter Silverstone, chief commercial officer at Newcastle United.
The partnership between the two businesses will allow members and guests access to the hospitality box, The Rooftop, for soccer games, but it’s also an opportunity to put Newcastle on the map, which will be showcased via advertising at soccer games and creating meaningful experiences to grow both brands internationally.
Fenwick launched its first advertising campaign, titled “Quiet No More,” in September.
Targeted at a younger audience, the ads feature images from upcoming photography duo Pablo Estévez and Javier Belloso, as well as Ana Paganini.
Moody images overlaid with text are displayed across the U.K., from Edinburgh to Bristol and Birmingham to London, as billboards and wild postings. — HIKMAT MOHAMMED
NEW AT COTERIE: Purvi Kanji has been named vice president of Coterie. She succeeds Courtney Bradarich and will report to Kelly Helfman, president of Informa Markets Fashion.
Most recently, Kanji was director of brand strategy at Place Showroom.
“Purvi’s extensive experience in the women’s contemproary market makes her the ideal leader to guide Coterie and lend an incredible perspective to the business. Her background as a brand builder and connector brings a new, innovative approach that will continue to establish Coterie as the future of fashion,” said Helfman.
While at Place Showroom, where she worked in sales, marketing and operations, Kanji had been a consistent presence at the Coterie show for 11 years.
The next Coterie returns to New York’s Javits Center from Feb. 20 to 22.
In other Informa news, the company is gearing up for its first MAGIC Miami, an immediates-focused women’s market regional event showcasing a vast selection of trend, young contemporaryy, modern sportswear, footwear, accessories, home, gift and beauty brands. The event takes place Jan. 8 and 9 at the Miami Beach Convention Center.
“Highlighting local brands and retailers that are contributing to Miami’s booming business ecosystem is so important to us,” said Jordan Rudow, vice president of MAGIC. “The Southeast is a key region for both retail and fashion brands looking to expand into regional markets.” — LISA LOCKWOOD
