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Speed and agility were the buzzwords of 2024, so it’s apropos that beauty sales broke the $250 billion barrier for the first time last year.

But there are clouds on the horizon.

What’s clear from the 2024 WWD Beauty Inc Top 100, our annual ranking of the world’s largest beauty companies by sales, is that the industry is undergoing seismic shifts as a result of geopolitical tensions, technological advances and a consumer landscape that is more complex than ever before. The good news is that total sales hit $252.09 billion. But that represented an increase of just 2.8 percent year-over-year, almost half that of 2023’s 5.3 percent gain. The ongoing slowdown in China weighed heavily on sales, and corporate restructuring was in the cards for a number of players as they sought to derisk and home in on high-potential categories.

L’Oréal accounted for 18.7 percent of total sales, its share of the Top 100 inching up once more, by 0.5 percentage points year-over-year, up from 14.7 percent in 2019. The top 10 companies overall generated sales of $147.49 billion, or 58.5 percent of total Top 100 revenues, down 0.9 percentage points.

Despite the year’s challenges, the vast majority — 73 percent — of companies saw their sales increase, but only 29 saw double-digit gains, down from 37 a year earlier, a sign of slower growth on the market overall. Of the 17 players with negative sales progression, seven were down more than 10 percent and three posted declines of more than 20 percent.

Among the biggest winners: Spain’s Puig entered the top 10 for the first time, up four places on a year ago, driven by strong growth in fragrance and skin care. L’Occitane, buoyed by the year’s viral hit Sol de Janeiro, climbed two places to number 18.

While times were tough for a number of C-beauty players, the biggest Chinese company on the list, Proya, jumped eight spots to number 28, the first C-beauty firm to reach the Top 30 global beauty companies.

With social-savvy affordable makeup players still trending as consumers feel the pinch, despite weakness in mass overall, especially in the U.S., beauty got two new billionaire brands, with E.l.f Beauty and Cosnova both surpassing that milestone in dollar terms.

This year’s newcomers include D&G Beauty, which has seen its sales explode since it took its beauty license, previously held by Shiseido, back in-house; Chinese makeup artist brand Mao Geping, which went public in Hong Kong; Auréa Group, the new owner seeking to turn around The Body Shop; Shein, which is flying high with in-house brand Sheglam, and AS Beauty, which bought Bliss World from L Catterton and has successfully rejuvenated the Laura Geller makeup brand.

But it was a rough ride for beauty on the stock market in 2024. Of the 49 listed players tracked in our By the Numbers section, only 15 saw their share prices increase through the year, with Victoria’s Secret & Co. the biggest gainer as the market reacted to its turnaround efforts. Of the 29 public players whose share value fell, 21 were down in the double digits, and five of the biggest decliners — Nu Skin Enterprises, Yunnan Botanee, Olaplex, The Estée Lauder Cos. and Shiseido — were already on the wane a year ago, with their market value falling further in 2024.

Compiling the Top 100

The WWD Beauty Inc Top 100 ranks the world’s largest beauty manufacturers. Firms are arranged by their beauty sales for the 2024 calendar year. For those companies whose fiscal year did not run from Jan. 1, 2024, to Dec. 31, 2024, estimates were calculated. All sales figures were either obtained from the companies or generated with the help of industry sources, indicated by (EST.) in the ranking.

For this list, “beauty” includes fragrance, makeup, skin care, body care, sun care, hair care, deodorant, plus cellulite and shaving products. It does not include bar soaps, razors, toothpastes, food and diet foods, medicines, vitamins, detergents or appliances. The revenues only include sales of beauty products each firm owns or manufactures and do not include business from private-label lines produced for other brands or products distributed for other companies. Information in the main brands section reflects company holdings in 2024.

Year-over-year percentage changes are in reported terms, not on a like-for- like or constant-currency basis, unless specified. Non-U.S.-based firms’ sales are converted into dollars according to the 2024 average yearly exchange rate.*

*Currency Conversions:

Sales figures in non-U.S. currencies were converted to the dollar using the following 2024 average exchange rates from Oanda.com:

€1=$1.08190
¥1=$0.00660898
£1=$1.27795
1 KRW=$0.000733035
R$1=$0.186202
CNY 1=$0.139072
1 Rupee=$0.0119508
SFr=$1.13609
1 HK$=$0.128155
1 Mexican peso=$0.0548935