The collection came on the heels — or the wedges, in this case — of positive news for Victoria Beckham’s business. Not only did it turn an operating profit for the first time, but clothing and makeup alike have been generating sales, which grew 15 percent last year and bucked the luxury trend.
Beckham built on that momentum with a spring collection that was all about ease, and filled with light fabrics and streamlined silhouettes. She knows exactly what her customer wants — a polished, unfussy wardrobe that slips easily from day to night — and that’s what she delivered.
She and the team also worked hard on the editing, paring down the runway looks to just 44 and offering a balanced blend of tailoring and soft edges.
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There were slim trousers and jeans worn with tank tops, fine-gauge polo knits or men’s cotton poplin shirts in pale mint or soft pink. Suits, some with their lapels sliced off, were more fitted this season, and had a lovely drape.
She interspersed those tailored looks with a parade of soft ones, such as taffeta raincoats like colorful puffs of air, and pleated, draped dresses with a kissing bird print and delicate chain details. Beckham said she wanted those dresses to look light and airy as if they were “suspended, and dancing around” the body.
Other dresses, and skirt and top combinations, came with plissé pleating and statement bows at the back. They were youthful and sweet, and perhaps designed with Beckham’s stylish 15-year-old daughter Harper in mind.
Accessories are a growing category for the business, and Beckham unveiled a few new ones, including a hand-painted “floating” sandal with a carved-out wedge heel, and a new Fontana belt buckle, which cuts the usual “B” logo in half, for a lighter feel.
She also launched new flat handbags inspired by 1920s styles and ideal for holding just a phone, and perhaps one of her new red lipsticks, which will be unveiled officially on Monday. Two years in development, “nourishing” and with a matte velvet texture, they are the latest innovation for a company that’s only just getting started.
