Lorenzo Serafini took some risks in decisively veering toward eveningwear for resort 2027. While many of his fellow designers hinge their pre-collections on versatile everyday looks and easy-to-approach separates, he went full-on in reclaiming Alberta Ferretti’s authority in all things occasionwear.
It was a smart move that paid off in this romantic collection, for more than one reason. Not only it was credible as it built on the legacy established over the years by the brand’s founder, but it winked at the opportunities and potential that a specific fashion cluster can offer, especially in its subcategory of wedding dressing and all the buoyancy and buzz currently surrounding it (see the Dua Lipa bridal craze over the past week as the most recent example).
Serafini was also skilled in channeling the feminine and romantic nature of the house in a way that could feel contemporary and attuned to his own handwriting, instilling a sense of effortlessness and immediacy into his proposition of ethereal dresses and crafty gowns.
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The designer played with fragility and sensuality in equal parts, mainly leveraging bias-cut silhouettes that delicately wrapped around the body and oftentimes revealed it. Pristine numbers rich in Chantilly lace inserts and ruffles alternated with chiffon cape dresses and fluid frocks where the draping converged into rosette details.
Coming in a refined palette of bronze, antique pink and jade hues, many options had echoes of ‘30s fashion and Old Hollywood glamour but paired classic lace, chiffon or silk georgette with crystal mesh constructions for a sleeker and more youthful result.
For additional edge, Serafini offset the softness of his whisper-thin frocks and lingerie-nodding tops with the structure of leather separates — ranging from oversize jackets to fitted pants — as well as with the enveloping texture of knitted pieces treated to mimic furry surfaces. These might not make the cut to walk down the aisle but can be attention-grabbing options to go anywhere else.
